THE GOAT CASTLE MURDERS - Natchez, Ms
There was blood, and the mistress of Glenburnie was nowhere to be found, that hot August night in 1932 - but there was no corpse. Bloodhounds were brought in to assist police and a large search party of prominent Natchez citizens. Finally, early in the morning, the bullet-ridden body of Jane SUGET MERRILL, Miss Jennie to locals, was found in a thicket about 100 yards from the house.
Miss Jennie was the town recluse and eccentric. Born in 1864 to a wealthy and prominent Natchez family, Miss Jennie spent her early years as a popular socialite in Natchez, New York, and France. In 1904, using a portion of the one-quarter-million-dollar estate left to her, by her father, Miss Jennie purchased the old estate of Glenburnie, and from then on became more and more of a recluse. She refused to update her house, never installing electricity. She did buy an old Model T, but while she could be seen puttering around town in the old car, she would not enter or shop in the local stores. Instead, she would tap the horn, and a saleslady would come out to the car.
Miss Jennie was 68 years old at the time of her murder. She had never married, and only allowed one person to enter Glenburnie during the 28 years she lived there. That one person was her cousin, the equally eccentric Duncan C. MINOR, who visited Miss Jennie every evening. It was thought that Duncan was the mysterious caller who notified police of the blood, and disappearance of Miss Jennie, that fateful August night. It was also rumored that Miss Jennie and Duncan had been in love, perhaps lovers, for years. But no one knows, and the secret was buried with them.
Duncan was not much of a suspect, but Miss Jennie's neighbors were. Richard "Dick" DANA and his companion, friend, and caregiver, the spinster Octavia DOCKERY, were immediate suspects. Dick Dana, once a popular figure in Natchez, had suffered declining mental health, over the years, and depended upon Octavia to care for him. Octavia was herself, something of an eccentric. Neither had any source of income, so Octavia began raising farm animals on the grounds of their old house, Glenwood, which had been inherited by Dick, from his parents. Chickens, geese, and goats roamed about the yard, sometimes finding their way to the porch of the old structure that was badly in need of repair. And so it was that Glenburnie became known as The Goat Castle.
Sometimes the goats ventured next door, to the flower beds belonging to Miss Jennie. At one point, Miss Jennie purchased a rifle and a handgun, and it is thought she shot and killed several goats as they enjoyed lunch. Duncan tried to help. He made plans to purchase The Goat Castle, by paying the back taxes, so he could evict Octavia and Dick. However, Octavia had Dick declared insane, and as such, Dick could not be forced to leave his home. The couple remained, the goats remained, and the house continued to deteriorate, inside and out.
Another suspect was John GEIGER, a tenant who lived in a shack, on the Dana property, called the Skumk's Nest, . His overcoat was found in The Goat Castle, supposedly left as collateral for back rent. However, when fingerprints belonging to both Octavia and Dick were found at Miss Jennie's home, the poverty-ridden couple was arrested.
Miss Jennie had left a will. Her entire estate, consisting of $250,000 in cash, Glenburnie, and two large plantations in Louisiana, was left to Duncan. Only one notation was made, in the will: "I am sure he [Duncan?] will carry out my wishes."
Octavia and Dick both loudly proclaimed their innocence. They reported hearing loud noises coming from the Glenburnie residence, on the night of the murder. Police were not convinced, and so Octavia and Dick were arrested, and taken to jail.
For the first time in years, outsiders entered The Goat Castle. Visitors were aghast at the filth and squalor. The once-beautiful mansion had become home to the hordes of chickens, ducks, geese, and goats that had been allowed to roam at will, making themselves comfortable among the magnificent furnishings. A leather-bound set of books, and several manuscripts, once belonging to the likes of Robert E. LEE and Jefferson DAVIS, had been chewed to pieces. Wallpaper had come loose, and was left to hang from the walls. Bedding and upholstered furniture had become moldy. Neither Octavia nor Dick slept in the fine four-poster beds, preferring filthy mats that had been placed on the floor in their respective bedrooms. The police thought sure they had the murderers.
Then, a twist to the story. Several miles away, in Arkansas, a man named George PEARLS had been shot and killed by Pine Bluff police. Pearls had brandished a .32 caliber gun, the same type of gun that had been used to murder Miss Jennie. Natchez townspeople began to wonder, and their questions soon turned to sympathy for Octavia and Dick. A jury could not be formed, and with the help of Ed RATCLIFF, a prominent Natchez attorney, Octavia and Dick were released from jail.
Finally there was a confession. Emily BURNS, a Natchez resident who owned a rooming house, admitted that she and George Pearls had visited Miss Jennie in an attempt to obtain a loan. Miss Jennie, angry over the intrusion, had drawn her pistol. It was then than Pearls shot her. Other evidence collaborated the story, and Emily was convicted and sent to prison.
Emily Burns spent less than eight years, in prison, obtaining a pardon by Gov. Paul B. JOHNSON, Sr., in 1940.
Duncan Minor accepted his inheritance, bought a new car, and traveled. At his death, money remaining from the inheritance was left to Miss Jennie's family, presumably in accordance with her wishes.
And what about Octavia and Dick? Their lives took a definite turn for the better. For a fee of .25, visitors could tour the grounds; for another .25, visitors could actually enter The Goat Castle. Dick, who once held a promising musical career, took a bath, shaved, and entertained guests by playing a borrowed piano.
Dick Dana died in 1948, a few months before Octivia's death in April, 1949. The Goat Castle was left to out-of-town cousins who auctioned off most of the furnishings. The house was abandoned, and finally torn down in 1955.
Glenburnie, the home of Miss Jennie, was eventually restored and updated.
Bibliography:
The Goat Castle Murders by Sim C. Callon and Carolyn Vance Smith, Plantation Publishing Company, Natchez, Mississippi, 1985
Natchez on the Mississippi by Harnett T. Kane, Bonanza Books, New York
History, Science and Paranormal Research Blog Hosted by the Mississippi Society of Paranormal Investigators
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Mansions of Victorian Village Memphis Tn.
Victorian Village -Memphis Tn.
by Angela Lucius, MSSPI Oct 31, 2009
Victorian Village, Memphis
Memphis is a city in the southwest corner of the U.S. state of Tennessee, and the county seat of Shelby County, Tennessee.
Memphis rises above the Mississippi River on the 4th Chickasaw Bluff just south of the mouth of the Wolf River ....and borders our great State of Mississippi.
Many of us in North Mississippi are familiar with Memphis and the historic significance of the city's history and culture.. Some of us, myself being one of them, were born in Memphis. It's history, music and culture are very much apart of the lives and heritages of many North Mississippi residents.
The Victorian Village is located in the eastern quadrant of Downtown Memphis, Tennessee, located on the Mississippi River between Interstate 40 to the north and Interstate 55 to the south.
History of The Victorian Village
19th century
During Memphis' early period of growth in the mid 1800s, a few wealthy Memphian's, built grand, Victorian-style homes in what was then the outskirts of the city. Edward C. Jones, one of Memphis's most significant Victorian-era architects, and his partner, Matthias Harvey Baldwin, built the Woodruff-Fontaine House (1870) and renovated the Harsson-Goyer-Lee House (1871).
Present
Some of these three and four-story mansions now stand near the city's downtown along Adams Avenue. While most of the original homes are now gone, several remain as museums.
Woodruff-Fontaine House
History of The Mansion
In 1845 Amos Woodruff arrived in Memphis from Rahway, N.J. He and his brother were expanding the carriage building business they had started in New Jersey. He became President of the City Council, Organizer and president of two banks, a railroad company, a hotel company, an insurance company, cotton compress and lumber firm. In 1870, he commissioned the building of the 16 room mansion at 680 Adams, paying $12,000 for the land and $40,000 for the residence.
He, his wife and 4 children lived in this French Victorian mansion from 1871-1883.
In 1883 Woodruff sold the house to Noland Fontaine, a Memphis cotton factor. The Fontaines lived in the house for 46 years, rearing 8 children to adulthood. Following Mrs. Fontaine's death, the children sold the house. The home was sold to Mrs. Rosa Lee of 690 Adams and she expanded the James Lee Art Academy to include both buildings. The Memphis Academy of Arts moved in 1959 and the house, willed to the city , stood vacant and vandalized.
In 1961 the Memphis Chapter, Association for the Preservation of Tennessee Antiquities, presented restoration pledges of $50,000 to the City of Memphis and signed a five year lease with the city.
In 1964 the restored mansion was opened to the public as a house museum, unfurnished. Generous Mid-Southerners donated gifts of furniture and furnishings. A.P.T.A. members are all volunteers who serve as hostesses year round in order that guest may enjoy the gracious atmosphere of the late 1800's which pervades this home.
Haunting Claims
Legend says that Molly Woodruff Henning, daughter of the original owner and the first to be married in the Mansion, still roams the halls. She is known as " The Lady of the House"
Reports of haunting activity such as, a smoke formed apparition of Molly has been reported by staff when they have tried to update or move furniture in the mansion. Molly apparently becomes upset making her dislike of the re-decorations known by slamming doors and breaking things. Molly has been reportedly seen, sitting on the bed of the second story Rose Room.
The Rose Room was Molly's bedroom and also the room where she lost a young child, who some reports claim died in the yellow fever epidemic that swept its deadly hand across Memphis in the 1870's. Three months after the death of the child, Molly's husband, Egbert Wooldridge died of pneumonia in the Rose Room. Molly was devastated but eventually recovered from the tragic loss and remarried and moved from the house with her second husband, to a home on Poplar Ave. where she also lost a second child. There are conflicting reports as to how this child died. some claim the child died at birth and other's claim a child, possibly Molly's was drowned by the child's nanny. I will make an attempt to clarify this claim.
Other claims of paranormal activity include strange noises, unexplained footsteps, cold spots, ghostly forms , voices and the smell of cigar smoke. Molly died in 1917.
MSSPI had the pleasure of touring the Woodruff Fontaine Mansion on October 30th, 2009. We were invited to the event by Paranormal Inc. of Memphis, who along with APTA members, hosted a Haunted Tour and presented some of their research and EVP clips. The mansion was beautifully decorated by the volunteers of APTA. After the presentation and tour , the MSSPI team had wine and appetizers in the Carriage House, behind the mansion. We had a great time and appreciate Paranormal Inc. for the invitation to this event. All proceeds from the event were to benefit the ongoing efforts of APTA and the Woodruff Fontaine Museum in preserving this beautiful piece of Memphis history and we were grateful to have the opportunity to be a small part of that preservation effort.
James Lee House
Built in the mid-1800s, this Victorian home is another in a collection of such homes in an area known as Victorian Village. The elaborate mansion was once home to riverboat tycoon James Lee.
This photo does not do justice to the massive size of the Mansion and if you think it looks creepy in the daylight , you should see it at night!
Mallory-Neely House
This 25-room, three-story Italianate mansion dates to 1852 and contains most of its original furnishings. Hand-painted ceilings and stained-glass windows from the 1893 Chicago World's Fair frame what once was the home of an affluent Memphis family.
A.P.T.A is a non-profit organization operating the Woodruff-Fontaine House Museum.
If you would like to find out more information about how you can become a member of AFTA or help support the upkeep of the Woodruff-Fontaine House Museum call 901-526-1469 for further details.
Association for The Preservation of Tennessee Antiquities
680-690 Adams Ave, Memphis Tn. 38105
by Angela Lucius, MSSPI Oct 31, 2009
Victorian Village, Memphis
Memphis is a city in the southwest corner of the U.S. state of Tennessee, and the county seat of Shelby County, Tennessee.
Memphis rises above the Mississippi River on the 4th Chickasaw Bluff just south of the mouth of the Wolf River ....and borders our great State of Mississippi.
Many of us in North Mississippi are familiar with Memphis and the historic significance of the city's history and culture.. Some of us, myself being one of them, were born in Memphis. It's history, music and culture are very much apart of the lives and heritages of many North Mississippi residents.
The Victorian Village is located in the eastern quadrant of Downtown Memphis, Tennessee, located on the Mississippi River between Interstate 40 to the north and Interstate 55 to the south.
History of The Victorian Village
19th century
During Memphis' early period of growth in the mid 1800s, a few wealthy Memphian's, built grand, Victorian-style homes in what was then the outskirts of the city. Edward C. Jones, one of Memphis's most significant Victorian-era architects, and his partner, Matthias Harvey Baldwin, built the Woodruff-Fontaine House (1870) and renovated the Harsson-Goyer-Lee House (1871).
Present
Some of these three and four-story mansions now stand near the city's downtown along Adams Avenue. While most of the original homes are now gone, several remain as museums.
Woodruff-Fontaine House
History of The Mansion
In 1845 Amos Woodruff arrived in Memphis from Rahway, N.J. He and his brother were expanding the carriage building business they had started in New Jersey. He became President of the City Council, Organizer and president of two banks, a railroad company, a hotel company, an insurance company, cotton compress and lumber firm. In 1870, he commissioned the building of the 16 room mansion at 680 Adams, paying $12,000 for the land and $40,000 for the residence.
He, his wife and 4 children lived in this French Victorian mansion from 1871-1883.
In 1883 Woodruff sold the house to Noland Fontaine, a Memphis cotton factor. The Fontaines lived in the house for 46 years, rearing 8 children to adulthood. Following Mrs. Fontaine's death, the children sold the house. The home was sold to Mrs. Rosa Lee of 690 Adams and she expanded the James Lee Art Academy to include both buildings. The Memphis Academy of Arts moved in 1959 and the house, willed to the city , stood vacant and vandalized.
In 1961 the Memphis Chapter, Association for the Preservation of Tennessee Antiquities, presented restoration pledges of $50,000 to the City of Memphis and signed a five year lease with the city.
In 1964 the restored mansion was opened to the public as a house museum, unfurnished. Generous Mid-Southerners donated gifts of furniture and furnishings. A.P.T.A. members are all volunteers who serve as hostesses year round in order that guest may enjoy the gracious atmosphere of the late 1800's which pervades this home.
Haunting Claims
Legend says that Molly Woodruff Henning, daughter of the original owner and the first to be married in the Mansion, still roams the halls. She is known as " The Lady of the House"
Reports of haunting activity such as, a smoke formed apparition of Molly has been reported by staff when they have tried to update or move furniture in the mansion. Molly apparently becomes upset making her dislike of the re-decorations known by slamming doors and breaking things. Molly has been reportedly seen, sitting on the bed of the second story Rose Room.
The Rose Room was Molly's bedroom and also the room where she lost a young child, who some reports claim died in the yellow fever epidemic that swept its deadly hand across Memphis in the 1870's. Three months after the death of the child, Molly's husband, Egbert Wooldridge died of pneumonia in the Rose Room. Molly was devastated but eventually recovered from the tragic loss and remarried and moved from the house with her second husband, to a home on Poplar Ave. where she also lost a second child. There are conflicting reports as to how this child died. some claim the child died at birth and other's claim a child, possibly Molly's was drowned by the child's nanny. I will make an attempt to clarify this claim.
Other claims of paranormal activity include strange noises, unexplained footsteps, cold spots, ghostly forms , voices and the smell of cigar smoke. Molly died in 1917.
MSSPI had the pleasure of touring the Woodruff Fontaine Mansion on October 30th, 2009. We were invited to the event by Paranormal Inc. of Memphis, who along with APTA members, hosted a Haunted Tour and presented some of their research and EVP clips. The mansion was beautifully decorated by the volunteers of APTA. After the presentation and tour , the MSSPI team had wine and appetizers in the Carriage House, behind the mansion. We had a great time and appreciate Paranormal Inc. for the invitation to this event. All proceeds from the event were to benefit the ongoing efforts of APTA and the Woodruff Fontaine Museum in preserving this beautiful piece of Memphis history and we were grateful to have the opportunity to be a small part of that preservation effort.
James Lee House
Built in the mid-1800s, this Victorian home is another in a collection of such homes in an area known as Victorian Village. The elaborate mansion was once home to riverboat tycoon James Lee.
This photo does not do justice to the massive size of the Mansion and if you think it looks creepy in the daylight , you should see it at night!
Mallory-Neely House

If you would like to find out more information about how you can become a member of AFTA or help support the upkeep of the Woodruff-Fontaine House Museum call 901-526-1469 for further details.
Association for The Preservation of Tennessee Antiquities
680-690 Adams Ave, Memphis Tn. 38105
A Brief History of Lochinvar Plantation, Pontotoc Ms.
Lochinvar Plantation Pontotoc Ms
In 1832 the United States by a treaty with the Chickasaw Indians acquired possession of all the lands owned by them in Mississippi, excepting certain reservations which were afterwards sold to the whites when the tribe moved to the Indian Territory.
Robert Gordon, a younger son of an ancient Scotch family, visiting America in search of adventure, was present and signed the treaty as a witness. He was a gentleman of culture and fine business ability. Although he came to America on a pleasure trip, he was so pleased with the country he concluded to remain and become an American citizen.
He soon afterward married Miss Elizabeth Walton, the daughter of a Virginian who belonged to a family distinguished for patriotism during the Revolutionary war; one of the Waltons was a signer of the Declaration of Independence.
When the United States Land Office was located at Pontotoc, Mr. Gordon located there also; and, being a thrifty Scotchman, by speculating in lands he soon accumulated a handsome estate. Two sections became his by purchase, one of them he bought from an Indian woman named Molly Gunn and it was deeded by her to his infant son, James Gordon. Upon this section he built a handsome house situated on the highest hill in Pontotoc county, overlooking a beautiful table-land surrounded by hills and valleys covered with maj estic trees of every variety known to this climate, through whose shadows silvery streams from an hundred gushing fountains flowed on to the sea.
The stately mansion was three years in building; every timber in it was of "heart pine," the frame work of solid trees with the sap hewn off; it was all hand work, as there were no sawmills in the country at that time. A beautiful self-supporting stairway leads up to the third story; above this, is an observatory overlooking the surrounding country. Beneath the building are three cellars, once stored with rich wines of home and foreign vintage. The house contained fifteen rooms, eight of them 22 feet square; and two large halls and galleries reaching around two sides of the house complete the picture of this palatial old mansion.
Pontotoc was at that time the home of some of the most cultured people in the State, and Lochinvar was kept in the style of the ancient home of the Gordons on the Solway, "Where the young laird came out of the west To the Netherby Hall on his swift steed, And bore off the bride to his nest."
Oos-ta-ko-wa, Broken Pumpkin, was the Indian name of a small creek on the estate which was once the home of the Chickasaw queen Puccanula, whose dwelling was close to a crystal spring still known as the Queen’s spring. After the exodus of the Indians it received the name of Lochinvar. Molly Gunn, from whom the estate was purchased, was the daughter of a Virginia loyalist—called a Tory during the Revolution. After the defeat of the British and the recognition of the American Republic, Gunn, who owned a large number of slaves, emigrated to Mississippi, married an Indian maiden and spent his life in peace among the Chickasaws. Forbidding any celebration of the Fourth of July, but celebrating the birthday of George III, he was loyal to the last.
When the white people entered the newly acquired territory they found among the Chickasaws a granddaughter of Gunn, named Rhoda, who was surpassingly beautiful, and heiress to a large property. She had many suitors among the adventurous white speculators, but the dusky maiden spurned their addresses and married an Indian brave named "Humming Bird," who bore the Chickasaw rose away to the West. Cyrus Harris, a nephew of Molly Gunn, who had been educated by Rev. Thomas Stuart, a Presbyterian missionary, was employed as interpreter by Mr. Gordon in his dealings with the Indians; and remained to the time of his death, ten years ago [1892], a true friend of the family.
Mr. Gordon was the founder of Aberdeen, in Monroe county, the Gordon house there being named in his honor. His estate was recorded in the census of 1860 at one million six hundred thousand dollars of taxable property.
When the Civil War called the sons of the South to arms, James Gordon, the only son and heir, armed and equipped the first cavalry company that left the State for Virginia, which was known as company "B," Jeff. Davis Legion, Stuart’s Cavalry, Army of Virginia. After a year’s service in Virginia, Capt. Gordon raised a regiment of which he was chosen colonel; this regiment was known as the 2nd Regiment of Volunteer Cavalry, Armstrong’s Brigade; served in many engagements under Generals Price, VanDorn, W. H. Jackson, and N. B. Forrest. The son of Lochinvar, like his maternal ancestors, was rebel to the core, and proud of a mother and wife who like the Spartan mothers, buckled on his sword and sent him to the field of battle. Among the trophies sent from the field was the sword of Gen. John S. Coburn, of Indiana, commanding a brigade at the battle of Thompson’s Station. Gen. Coburn requested by a letter to Gen. Frank Cheatham permission to present the sword to Col. Gordon in consideration of kindness shown him while a prisoner. Col. Gordon also won the friendship of Gen. Shafter, who presented him with a pistol, and he did not forget to send a kind message of remembrance, when on his way to Santiago, Cuba.
These incidents are mentioned in no spirit of vain-glory, but to show how Confederates treated their prisoners. These papers, shown to Adjutant Woodward of Grierson’s staff, saved Lochinvar from the torch when Grierson made his raid through Pontotoc county.
Lochinvar was not only known as the most beautiful house in North Mississippi, but noted for the hospitality dispensed. Its spacious halls were often the scene of pleasure where the elite of society assembled and spent the happy hours in feasting, music, and dancing. It can be truthfully said that a free welcome was extended to all who sought its hospitality whether the invited guest, the passing traveler, or the ragged beggar seeking alms; none were refused admittance and entertainment.
Lochinvar was the scene of many romances. During the late war many brides came through the Federal lines, met their Confederate lovers here and were married. The sick and wounded soldiers often sought health and comfort under the leafy shadows and beside the murmuring streams, and were nursed to health by the noble mistress of the home.
After the aged founder and his wife passed away, the son tried to keep up the prestige of the house, but soon found that a great estate requires a great income. Every thing is changed at Lochinvar, the trellised bowers where love’s sweet story was whispered to willing listeners are silent and falling to decay. The tramp of the steed, and the hunter’s mellow horn, the cheery music of the hounds in chase of the wily fox or antlered deer among the hills, are heard no more. The wheel of fortune turned, leaving the grand old home a sad relic of better and happier days; and the exile’s tears that pride withholds from outward flow fall back and scald the heart, as memory brings to view the scenes of long ago. This short story of Lochinvar is the history of nearly all the old Southern homes.
by Mrs. N. D. Deupree
From Publications The Mississippi Historical Society, Vol. VI,
Edited by Franklin L. Riley, Secretary
Published Oxford, Mississippi 1902
http://www.natchezbelle.org/ahgp-ms/historic-homes/lochinvar.htm
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Lochinvar Ghost Tale
by Troy Taylor
Lochinvar Plantation is a true part of the old south, steeped in the lore of the southern states and drenched in the traditions of long ago. Built in the late 1830's, the mansion was home to the Gordon family for many years and watched over by an old caretaker. The Gordon family is long gone now.... but the old caretaker still watches over the place.
Lochinvar was built by Robert Gordon, a Scottish adventurer, in the late 1830's as a gift for his wife. At the time, Gordon owned a strip of land which stretched all the way from Pontotoc to Aberdeen, sixty miles away. Aberdeen was Gordon's own town. He had founded a trading post there in the early 1830's and named the place Dundee in honor of a town in Scotland. He later changed to the name to Aberdeen. It was near Pontotoc where Gordon found the land where he wanted to build his home. The location that he chose had been the land of the Choctaw Indian chief, Chinubi and once the Indians were gone from the area, he began building the new house.
After moving into the grand mansion, the Gordons would have one child, a son named James. His earliest memories of Lochinvar included magnificent parties and his personal servant, named Ebenezer. He could not remember a time when Ebenezer had not been a part of his life. He taught James to hunt and fish, told him stories, supervised his manners and when he was old enough, packed his trunks and watched him leave for the University of Mississippi at Oxford in 1851.
As the years passed, the beloved slave grew older and became known by the respectful name of "Uncle Eb". He remained particularly close to James Gordon and their relationship went far beyond master and servant.
In February of 1856, James married Virginia Wiley and in December of that year, their daughter Annie was born. From that time that she could walk, Annie was attached to Uncle Eb. She followed him everywhere and begged him to push her on the swings and to tell her stories.
Delighted, Uncle Eb took under his wing a new generation of Gordons.
Then came the Civil War. Robert Gordon, now too old to be involved, gave his support and advice to James and they raised a company of Confederate cavalry, the first from northern Mississippi. Before James Gordon left for service, he called Uncle Eb to see him. "Take care of my family and the plantation," he told his mentor, "My father needs your help and I need to know that you are here with my family. Don't let anything happen to them and I'll be back home soon." He embraced the older man and told him goodbye.
This began Uncle Eb's role as the caretaker and guardian of Lochinvar. Every afternoon, he would begin his rounds of the property, making sure the gates were closed, the doors to the house were locked and that there were no strangers lurking around the plantation. He moved his bed to the hallway outside of Annie's door, where he slept from that night on. He took to roaming the grounds at various times throughout the night, carrying an oil lantern and making sure that everything was secure.
As time passed, he learned other skills and began making repairs on the house and the farming equipment. He learned to cook and prepare the meals and even to darn socks and make repairs on clothing.
Night after night, the light from Uncle Eb's lantern circled the house, the barn, the garden, the pasture and the orchards, reassuring himself that nothing was amiss and that the people he loved were safe.
One night, while Uncle Eb was on his rounds, a rider approached. It was Captain James Gordon, home for a brief stay at Lochinvar. A few days after he left, he was promoted to the rank of Colonel, returning to combat with the 2nd Mississippi Cavalry Regiment, Armstrong's Brigade.
Colonel Gordon and Uncle Eb would never meet again.
One rainy night, Uncle Eb was roused from his sleep by a strange sound. He took his lantern outside and crossed the grounds in the storm. He was soaked to the skin before he was sure that everything was secure. A day or so later, what seemed to be a cold developed into pneumonia. In less than a week, old Uncle Eb was dead.
It was a long time before Colonel Gordon received word of his friend's death. He was in England at the time on a mission for President Davis. On his way home, he landed in North Carolina and was captured and imprisoned. He soon escaped and made his way to Canada. There, he met and befriended an actor named John Wilkes Booth. This casual friendship with Booth later pointed suspicion to Gordon when President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. Luckily, Gordon was able to prove his innocence.
After the war, Gordon finally learned that Uncle Eb had passed away while carrying out his duties to the plantation.
Many believe that since Uncle Eb died before the war ended and before his guardianship of the Gordon home came to an end.... he has not rested in peace in the years since the Civil War. As the years have passed, his oil lantern is still seen roaming the grounds of the Lochinvar estate. It has been seen for decades and locals believe that the light belongs to the spirit of Uncle Eb, watching over his beloved family throughout eternity.
Lochinvar is a private residence north of the town of Pontotoc. The town is located about 20 miles west of Tupelo on Highway 6.
Copyright 1998 by Troy Taylor
www.prairieghosts.com/lochinvar.html
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Name James Robert GORDON
Birth 6 Dec 1833, Quincy, Monroe Co. MS
Death 28 Nov 1912, Okalona, MS
Occupation Planter; U.S. Senator
Religion Methodist
Education Univ. of MS 1855
Father Robert GORDON (1788-1876)
Mother Mary Elizabeth WALTON (1813-1869)
Misc. Notes
James Gordon wrote the following in a "Biographical Memoranda" copied by Forrest Tutor:
James Gordon went to school in the old field schools of Pontotoc County. At Tocsish to Jesse & Thos. Bramlett, to Hon Rittain R. Webb, Cherry Creek, Pontotoc Co., Dr. Harots in Holly Springs in 1848 to Whitehorn in Holly Springs in 1848&9. LaGrange College 1850. Entered sophomore at University of Mississippi Sept 1852. Graduated in Class of 1855.
Planter, Editor, Journalist . A writer for various magazines and journals (including Scribners, and Century Magazines, Forest and Stream, Field and Farm)
Was a member of the state legislature in 1857, 1878 & 1886. Elected to State Senate for 31st District for four years beginning Jan 5th 1904. Has serve on state executive committee and always actively working for the democratic.
Captain Chickasaw Ranger, Co. B. Jeff Davis Legion, commission Feb 7th 1861; armed and equipped company at own expense. Raised and organized a Regiment of cavalry know as 2nd Regt. Miss. Vol. Cavalry, Armstrongs Brigade. Fought under Genl. J.E.B. Stuart in Virginia, Van Dorn, W. H. Jackson and N. B. Forest in Miss and other states. Was sent to Europe by President Davis in 1864. Had yellow fever in Bahama Islands, was captured on return the night Fort Fisher Fell at Wilmington. Escaped and went to Canada. Reported to the Hon. Jacob Thompson in Montreal and was like him charged with being an accomplice of Wilkes Booth in the assassination of Lincoln, some months after surrender was permitted to return home by Genl. Dix, who gave him a safe guard to report to him in New York and was satisfied with his innocence.
He married Feb 7th 1856 Carolina Virginia Wiley, daughter of Yancey Wiley and his wife Annie Thompson Wiley who lived near Oxford. Mrs. Gordon was a niece of Hon. Jacob Thompson, a granddaughter of Nicholas Thompson of Leesburg, NC and a granddaughter of a daughter of Hon. Bartlett Yancey, a distinguished lawyer, politician and statesman of North Carolina. She was active in church work and for soldiers in the war...
Col. James Gordon and Mrs Carolina Virginia Gordon were the parents of only two childen and there was twenty years and seven months difference in their ages. The oldest, Anna, married John T. Barrow. she was born Dec 18th 1856 and is the mother of three children, Gordon T. Barrow, Mary Virginia Barrow and John T. Barrow Jr. Robert James Gordon was born July 27th 1877. Is now a law student at the University of Miss." (written Nov. 10, 1903 by James Gordon)
Note that James Gordon was appointed United States Senator in December 1909 by Gov. Noel to fill the vacancy created by the death of Senator McLaurin. He served only until Feb. 10, 1910, when he was succeeded by LeRoy Percy, who was elected by the Mississippi Legislature.
The following is James Gordon's biography in The History of Monroe County:
"James Gordon was born at Cotton Gin Port in Monroe County Dec. 6, 1833. He attended the University of MS at Oxford, and graduated in 1855. In 1856, he was the representative of his county in the State Legislature. He married Caroline Virginia Wiley in February of 1856. She was the daughter of Yancey Wiley of Oxford, MS. According to Goodspeeds "Biographical and Historical Memoirs of Mississippi," during the Civil War, James Gordon raised a company of cavalry arming it and equipping it from his own private means. He captained the company, took it to Richmond and was attached to the Jeff Davis legion under General Stewart. After the battle of Seven Pnes in 1862, he returned to MS and recruited a regiment of cavalry of which he was made Colonel. The outfit was know as the Secon MS Regt Cav of Armstrong's Brigade. He was later sent to Europe by President Jefferson Davis on a mission. On his return, he was captured and was a prisoner of war until he escaped in Feb. of 1865 and went to Montreal, Canada. During this time in Canada, he met John Wilkes Booth, and was later suspected by the United States Government of implication in the assassination of President Lincoln. He was later cleared of any suspicion. He returned to Mississisppi in 1865 after taking the oath of allegiance. He was elected as a representative to the State Legislature in 1877 and agan in 1885. He was later U. S. Senator. James Gordon was also an author under the pen name Pious Jeems. He contributed to many of the foremost publications of his day, including the magazines, Century Magazine, Turf, Field & Farm, American Field and the London Field. He died Nov. 28, 1912 and was buried at Okolona, Chickasaw County, Mississippi."
Note that in the 1860 census of Chickasaw County, MS, the value of James Gordon's real estate was $122,700 and the value of his personal property was $128, 725.
The following description of James Robert Gordon's late Civil War experience is from William A. Tidwell, Come Retribution, p. 406: "Jefferson Davis persuaded him to go to England in 1864 to help arrange the purchase of a privateer. Gordon's return was delayed when he contracted yellow fever at Bermuda. He finaly reached Wilmington aboard the blockade runner Blenheim which steamed blithely into port on the night of 24 January 1865 without the captain being aware that Fort Fisher had been captured by a federal amphibious force on 15 January. The next morning the vessel was taken as a prize, and the crew was removed to Old Point Comfort, Virginia. At Old Point Comfort, Gordon talked his way out on 22 February by telling the Yankees that he was the son of athe duke of Argyle and was fleeing from a scrape in Scotland. In a few days he reached New York City, where he was concealed, probably by John Potts Brown, an astute Confederate commercial agent. As Gordon told it later, he went on to Montreal and reported to Jacob Thompson. ...
James Gordon clearly arrived in Montreal on 8 March 1865, in the middle of an important Confederate operation. After the war, in talks with visitors at Lochinvar, he said that while he was in Canada he worked on plans to capture President Lincoln and had met John Wilkes Booth. Although this was known to many people in rural Pontotoc County, it caused scarcely a ripple. In the bitter poverty of the postwar South, who would condemn a plan to capture Lincoln?"
homepage.mac.com/.../Miller_family/ps02_241.html
In 1832 the United States by a treaty with the Chickasaw Indians acquired possession of all the lands owned by them in Mississippi, excepting certain reservations which were afterwards sold to the whites when the tribe moved to the Indian Territory.
Robert Gordon, a younger son of an ancient Scotch family, visiting America in search of adventure, was present and signed the treaty as a witness. He was a gentleman of culture and fine business ability. Although he came to America on a pleasure trip, he was so pleased with the country he concluded to remain and become an American citizen.
He soon afterward married Miss Elizabeth Walton, the daughter of a Virginian who belonged to a family distinguished for patriotism during the Revolutionary war; one of the Waltons was a signer of the Declaration of Independence.
When the United States Land Office was located at Pontotoc, Mr. Gordon located there also; and, being a thrifty Scotchman, by speculating in lands he soon accumulated a handsome estate. Two sections became his by purchase, one of them he bought from an Indian woman named Molly Gunn and it was deeded by her to his infant son, James Gordon. Upon this section he built a handsome house situated on the highest hill in Pontotoc county, overlooking a beautiful table-land surrounded by hills and valleys covered with maj estic trees of every variety known to this climate, through whose shadows silvery streams from an hundred gushing fountains flowed on to the sea.
The stately mansion was three years in building; every timber in it was of "heart pine," the frame work of solid trees with the sap hewn off; it was all hand work, as there were no sawmills in the country at that time. A beautiful self-supporting stairway leads up to the third story; above this, is an observatory overlooking the surrounding country. Beneath the building are three cellars, once stored with rich wines of home and foreign vintage. The house contained fifteen rooms, eight of them 22 feet square; and two large halls and galleries reaching around two sides of the house complete the picture of this palatial old mansion.
Pontotoc was at that time the home of some of the most cultured people in the State, and Lochinvar was kept in the style of the ancient home of the Gordons on the Solway, "Where the young laird came out of the west To the Netherby Hall on his swift steed, And bore off the bride to his nest."
Oos-ta-ko-wa, Broken Pumpkin, was the Indian name of a small creek on the estate which was once the home of the Chickasaw queen Puccanula, whose dwelling was close to a crystal spring still known as the Queen’s spring. After the exodus of the Indians it received the name of Lochinvar. Molly Gunn, from whom the estate was purchased, was the daughter of a Virginia loyalist—called a Tory during the Revolution. After the defeat of the British and the recognition of the American Republic, Gunn, who owned a large number of slaves, emigrated to Mississippi, married an Indian maiden and spent his life in peace among the Chickasaws. Forbidding any celebration of the Fourth of July, but celebrating the birthday of George III, he was loyal to the last.
When the white people entered the newly acquired territory they found among the Chickasaws a granddaughter of Gunn, named Rhoda, who was surpassingly beautiful, and heiress to a large property. She had many suitors among the adventurous white speculators, but the dusky maiden spurned their addresses and married an Indian brave named "Humming Bird," who bore the Chickasaw rose away to the West. Cyrus Harris, a nephew of Molly Gunn, who had been educated by Rev. Thomas Stuart, a Presbyterian missionary, was employed as interpreter by Mr. Gordon in his dealings with the Indians; and remained to the time of his death, ten years ago [1892], a true friend of the family.
Mr. Gordon was the founder of Aberdeen, in Monroe county, the Gordon house there being named in his honor. His estate was recorded in the census of 1860 at one million six hundred thousand dollars of taxable property.
When the Civil War called the sons of the South to arms, James Gordon, the only son and heir, armed and equipped the first cavalry company that left the State for Virginia, which was known as company "B," Jeff. Davis Legion, Stuart’s Cavalry, Army of Virginia. After a year’s service in Virginia, Capt. Gordon raised a regiment of which he was chosen colonel; this regiment was known as the 2nd Regiment of Volunteer Cavalry, Armstrong’s Brigade; served in many engagements under Generals Price, VanDorn, W. H. Jackson, and N. B. Forrest. The son of Lochinvar, like his maternal ancestors, was rebel to the core, and proud of a mother and wife who like the Spartan mothers, buckled on his sword and sent him to the field of battle. Among the trophies sent from the field was the sword of Gen. John S. Coburn, of Indiana, commanding a brigade at the battle of Thompson’s Station. Gen. Coburn requested by a letter to Gen. Frank Cheatham permission to present the sword to Col. Gordon in consideration of kindness shown him while a prisoner. Col. Gordon also won the friendship of Gen. Shafter, who presented him with a pistol, and he did not forget to send a kind message of remembrance, when on his way to Santiago, Cuba.
These incidents are mentioned in no spirit of vain-glory, but to show how Confederates treated their prisoners. These papers, shown to Adjutant Woodward of Grierson’s staff, saved Lochinvar from the torch when Grierson made his raid through Pontotoc county.
Lochinvar was not only known as the most beautiful house in North Mississippi, but noted for the hospitality dispensed. Its spacious halls were often the scene of pleasure where the elite of society assembled and spent the happy hours in feasting, music, and dancing. It can be truthfully said that a free welcome was extended to all who sought its hospitality whether the invited guest, the passing traveler, or the ragged beggar seeking alms; none were refused admittance and entertainment.
Lochinvar was the scene of many romances. During the late war many brides came through the Federal lines, met their Confederate lovers here and were married. The sick and wounded soldiers often sought health and comfort under the leafy shadows and beside the murmuring streams, and were nursed to health by the noble mistress of the home.
After the aged founder and his wife passed away, the son tried to keep up the prestige of the house, but soon found that a great estate requires a great income. Every thing is changed at Lochinvar, the trellised bowers where love’s sweet story was whispered to willing listeners are silent and falling to decay. The tramp of the steed, and the hunter’s mellow horn, the cheery music of the hounds in chase of the wily fox or antlered deer among the hills, are heard no more. The wheel of fortune turned, leaving the grand old home a sad relic of better and happier days; and the exile’s tears that pride withholds from outward flow fall back and scald the heart, as memory brings to view the scenes of long ago. This short story of Lochinvar is the history of nearly all the old Southern homes.
by Mrs. N. D. Deupree
From Publications The Mississippi Historical Society, Vol. VI,
Edited by Franklin L. Riley, Secretary
Published Oxford, Mississippi 1902
http://www.natchezbelle.org/ahgp-ms/historic-homes/lochinvar.htm
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Lochinvar Ghost Tale
by Troy Taylor
Lochinvar Plantation is a true part of the old south, steeped in the lore of the southern states and drenched in the traditions of long ago. Built in the late 1830's, the mansion was home to the Gordon family for many years and watched over by an old caretaker. The Gordon family is long gone now.... but the old caretaker still watches over the place.
Lochinvar was built by Robert Gordon, a Scottish adventurer, in the late 1830's as a gift for his wife. At the time, Gordon owned a strip of land which stretched all the way from Pontotoc to Aberdeen, sixty miles away. Aberdeen was Gordon's own town. He had founded a trading post there in the early 1830's and named the place Dundee in honor of a town in Scotland. He later changed to the name to Aberdeen. It was near Pontotoc where Gordon found the land where he wanted to build his home. The location that he chose had been the land of the Choctaw Indian chief, Chinubi and once the Indians were gone from the area, he began building the new house.
After moving into the grand mansion, the Gordons would have one child, a son named James. His earliest memories of Lochinvar included magnificent parties and his personal servant, named Ebenezer. He could not remember a time when Ebenezer had not been a part of his life. He taught James to hunt and fish, told him stories, supervised his manners and when he was old enough, packed his trunks and watched him leave for the University of Mississippi at Oxford in 1851.
As the years passed, the beloved slave grew older and became known by the respectful name of "Uncle Eb". He remained particularly close to James Gordon and their relationship went far beyond master and servant.
In February of 1856, James married Virginia Wiley and in December of that year, their daughter Annie was born. From that time that she could walk, Annie was attached to Uncle Eb. She followed him everywhere and begged him to push her on the swings and to tell her stories.
Delighted, Uncle Eb took under his wing a new generation of Gordons.
Then came the Civil War. Robert Gordon, now too old to be involved, gave his support and advice to James and they raised a company of Confederate cavalry, the first from northern Mississippi. Before James Gordon left for service, he called Uncle Eb to see him. "Take care of my family and the plantation," he told his mentor, "My father needs your help and I need to know that you are here with my family. Don't let anything happen to them and I'll be back home soon." He embraced the older man and told him goodbye.
This began Uncle Eb's role as the caretaker and guardian of Lochinvar. Every afternoon, he would begin his rounds of the property, making sure the gates were closed, the doors to the house were locked and that there were no strangers lurking around the plantation. He moved his bed to the hallway outside of Annie's door, where he slept from that night on. He took to roaming the grounds at various times throughout the night, carrying an oil lantern and making sure that everything was secure.
As time passed, he learned other skills and began making repairs on the house and the farming equipment. He learned to cook and prepare the meals and even to darn socks and make repairs on clothing.
Night after night, the light from Uncle Eb's lantern circled the house, the barn, the garden, the pasture and the orchards, reassuring himself that nothing was amiss and that the people he loved were safe.
One night, while Uncle Eb was on his rounds, a rider approached. It was Captain James Gordon, home for a brief stay at Lochinvar. A few days after he left, he was promoted to the rank of Colonel, returning to combat with the 2nd Mississippi Cavalry Regiment, Armstrong's Brigade.
Colonel Gordon and Uncle Eb would never meet again.
One rainy night, Uncle Eb was roused from his sleep by a strange sound. He took his lantern outside and crossed the grounds in the storm. He was soaked to the skin before he was sure that everything was secure. A day or so later, what seemed to be a cold developed into pneumonia. In less than a week, old Uncle Eb was dead.
It was a long time before Colonel Gordon received word of his friend's death. He was in England at the time on a mission for President Davis. On his way home, he landed in North Carolina and was captured and imprisoned. He soon escaped and made his way to Canada. There, he met and befriended an actor named John Wilkes Booth. This casual friendship with Booth later pointed suspicion to Gordon when President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. Luckily, Gordon was able to prove his innocence.
After the war, Gordon finally learned that Uncle Eb had passed away while carrying out his duties to the plantation.
Many believe that since Uncle Eb died before the war ended and before his guardianship of the Gordon home came to an end.... he has not rested in peace in the years since the Civil War. As the years have passed, his oil lantern is still seen roaming the grounds of the Lochinvar estate. It has been seen for decades and locals believe that the light belongs to the spirit of Uncle Eb, watching over his beloved family throughout eternity.
Lochinvar is a private residence north of the town of Pontotoc. The town is located about 20 miles west of Tupelo on Highway 6.
Copyright 1998 by Troy Taylor
www.prairieghosts.com/lochinvar.html
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Name James Robert GORDON
Birth 6 Dec 1833, Quincy, Monroe Co. MS
Death 28 Nov 1912, Okalona, MS
Occupation Planter; U.S. Senator
Religion Methodist
Education Univ. of MS 1855
Father Robert GORDON (1788-1876)
Mother Mary Elizabeth WALTON (1813-1869)
Misc. Notes
James Gordon wrote the following in a "Biographical Memoranda" copied by Forrest Tutor:
James Gordon went to school in the old field schools of Pontotoc County. At Tocsish to Jesse & Thos. Bramlett, to Hon Rittain R. Webb, Cherry Creek, Pontotoc Co., Dr. Harots in Holly Springs in 1848 to Whitehorn in Holly Springs in 1848&9. LaGrange College 1850. Entered sophomore at University of Mississippi Sept 1852. Graduated in Class of 1855.
Planter, Editor, Journalist . A writer for various magazines and journals (including Scribners, and Century Magazines, Forest and Stream, Field and Farm)
Was a member of the state legislature in 1857, 1878 & 1886. Elected to State Senate for 31st District for four years beginning Jan 5th 1904. Has serve on state executive committee and always actively working for the democratic.
Captain Chickasaw Ranger, Co. B. Jeff Davis Legion, commission Feb 7th 1861; armed and equipped company at own expense. Raised and organized a Regiment of cavalry know as 2nd Regt. Miss. Vol. Cavalry, Armstrongs Brigade. Fought under Genl. J.E.B. Stuart in Virginia, Van Dorn, W. H. Jackson and N. B. Forest in Miss and other states. Was sent to Europe by President Davis in 1864. Had yellow fever in Bahama Islands, was captured on return the night Fort Fisher Fell at Wilmington. Escaped and went to Canada. Reported to the Hon. Jacob Thompson in Montreal and was like him charged with being an accomplice of Wilkes Booth in the assassination of Lincoln, some months after surrender was permitted to return home by Genl. Dix, who gave him a safe guard to report to him in New York and was satisfied with his innocence.
He married Feb 7th 1856 Carolina Virginia Wiley, daughter of Yancey Wiley and his wife Annie Thompson Wiley who lived near Oxford. Mrs. Gordon was a niece of Hon. Jacob Thompson, a granddaughter of Nicholas Thompson of Leesburg, NC and a granddaughter of a daughter of Hon. Bartlett Yancey, a distinguished lawyer, politician and statesman of North Carolina. She was active in church work and for soldiers in the war...
Col. James Gordon and Mrs Carolina Virginia Gordon were the parents of only two childen and there was twenty years and seven months difference in their ages. The oldest, Anna, married John T. Barrow. she was born Dec 18th 1856 and is the mother of three children, Gordon T. Barrow, Mary Virginia Barrow and John T. Barrow Jr. Robert James Gordon was born July 27th 1877. Is now a law student at the University of Miss." (written Nov. 10, 1903 by James Gordon)
Note that James Gordon was appointed United States Senator in December 1909 by Gov. Noel to fill the vacancy created by the death of Senator McLaurin. He served only until Feb. 10, 1910, when he was succeeded by LeRoy Percy, who was elected by the Mississippi Legislature.
The following is James Gordon's biography in The History of Monroe County:
"James Gordon was born at Cotton Gin Port in Monroe County Dec. 6, 1833. He attended the University of MS at Oxford, and graduated in 1855. In 1856, he was the representative of his county in the State Legislature. He married Caroline Virginia Wiley in February of 1856. She was the daughter of Yancey Wiley of Oxford, MS. According to Goodspeeds "Biographical and Historical Memoirs of Mississippi," during the Civil War, James Gordon raised a company of cavalry arming it and equipping it from his own private means. He captained the company, took it to Richmond and was attached to the Jeff Davis legion under General Stewart. After the battle of Seven Pnes in 1862, he returned to MS and recruited a regiment of cavalry of which he was made Colonel. The outfit was know as the Secon MS Regt Cav of Armstrong's Brigade. He was later sent to Europe by President Jefferson Davis on a mission. On his return, he was captured and was a prisoner of war until he escaped in Feb. of 1865 and went to Montreal, Canada. During this time in Canada, he met John Wilkes Booth, and was later suspected by the United States Government of implication in the assassination of President Lincoln. He was later cleared of any suspicion. He returned to Mississisppi in 1865 after taking the oath of allegiance. He was elected as a representative to the State Legislature in 1877 and agan in 1885. He was later U. S. Senator. James Gordon was also an author under the pen name Pious Jeems. He contributed to many of the foremost publications of his day, including the magazines, Century Magazine, Turf, Field & Farm, American Field and the London Field. He died Nov. 28, 1912 and was buried at Okolona, Chickasaw County, Mississippi."
Note that in the 1860 census of Chickasaw County, MS, the value of James Gordon's real estate was $122,700 and the value of his personal property was $128, 725.
The following description of James Robert Gordon's late Civil War experience is from William A. Tidwell, Come Retribution, p. 406: "Jefferson Davis persuaded him to go to England in 1864 to help arrange the purchase of a privateer. Gordon's return was delayed when he contracted yellow fever at Bermuda. He finaly reached Wilmington aboard the blockade runner Blenheim which steamed blithely into port on the night of 24 January 1865 without the captain being aware that Fort Fisher had been captured by a federal amphibious force on 15 January. The next morning the vessel was taken as a prize, and the crew was removed to Old Point Comfort, Virginia. At Old Point Comfort, Gordon talked his way out on 22 February by telling the Yankees that he was the son of athe duke of Argyle and was fleeing from a scrape in Scotland. In a few days he reached New York City, where he was concealed, probably by John Potts Brown, an astute Confederate commercial agent. As Gordon told it later, he went on to Montreal and reported to Jacob Thompson. ...
James Gordon clearly arrived in Montreal on 8 March 1865, in the middle of an important Confederate operation. After the war, in talks with visitors at Lochinvar, he said that while he was in Canada he worked on plans to capture President Lincoln and had met John Wilkes Booth. Although this was known to many people in rural Pontotoc County, it caused scarcely a ripple. In the bitter poverty of the postwar South, who would condemn a plan to capture Lincoln?"
homepage.mac.com/.../Miller_family/ps02_241.html
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Electromagnetic Fields (EMF) Basics
Electromagnetic Fields (EMF) Basics
by D.R. Smith
Northern Lights Paranormal Studies and Investigations
Fargo, North Dakota
In recent years, many paranormal investigators have adopted Electromagnetic Field (EMF) detection devices as a plausible tool for detecting the presence of ghosts and calculating the approximate location of spirit energies. In fact, it is probably the paranormal community which accounts for a very large percentage of the sales of EMF detection and monitoring equipment gear. However, only a handful of ghost hunters can fully explain the principles behind EMF and demonstrate proper use of the detection equipment.
Hopefully, this article will help to explain the basics of EMF detection. This article is not intended to be a technical treatise on electromagnetic fields, waves and radiation, but rather is aimed towards informing our ghost hunting brethren of some little known facts and information that might prove to be useful to them.
Electromagnetic Field Detectors
During the cellular telephone boom of the early 1990's, many theories abounded concerning the ill effects generated to the human body from exposure to ELF (extremely low frequency) magnetic fields in numerous scientific and medical journals. Theories ranged from those explaining that EMF exposure could possibly effect the body's immune system to theories which proposed that EMF exposure could be directly correlated to certain types of cancer.
Although evidence proving a direct "cause and effect" link between EMF and health problems has never been established, prestigious and recognized authorities (including the United States Environmental Protection Agency) have recommended "prudent avoidance" of ELF magnetic fields on a prolonged basis until further research leads to more conclusive results.
So, to serve the public's interest, many companies began developing simple equipment to both detect the presence of ELF magnetic fields and to measure their relative strength. Almost anyone who has purchased an EMF detector and read through the directions included with the unit has an understanding of how to operate the unit and a strong idea of where to find magnetic fields within the home. Common sources for household EM readings include such mundane objects as computer monitors, cellular telephones, bedside clock radios, and microwave ovens.
There are many different models of EMF detector currently available on the market, ranging from basic EM detection circuit boards (retailing around $5 each), to limited range user friendly models (the NL-PSI members all own ELF-Zone EMF detectors purchased in an e-Bay auction for $10 each), to incredibly sensitive units such as the Natural Trifield Meter (expect to pay a minimum of $150 for the basic model up to $300 for the more advanced models). EMF detection equipment is widely available from numerous sources on the world wide web and mail order scientific supply houses such as Edmund Scientific.
General Information concerning EMF
The electromagnetic spectrum covers an enormous range of frequencies ranging from invisible fields to visible light and beyond. These frequencies are expressed in cycles per second (i.e., Hz). Electric power (60 Hz in North America, 50 Hz in most other places) is in the extremely-low-frequency range, which includes frequencies below 3000 Hz.
The higher the frequency, the shorter the distance between one wave and the next, and the greater the amount of energy in the field. Microwave frequency fields, with wavelengths of several inches, have enough energy to cause heating in conducting material. Still higher frequencies like X-rays cause ionization—the breaking of molecular bonds, which damages genetic material. In comparison, power frequency fields have wavelengths of more than 3100 miles (5000 km) and consequently have very low energy levels that do not cause heating or ionization. However, AC fields do produce weak electric currents in conducting objects, including people and animals.
In order to understand how electromagnetic fields operate within a home, we must first understand some of the basic principles of electricity. Without going into great detail, it is safe to assume that most people are aware that the electricity which powers their homes is brought to them by an enormous power system which covers most of the country.
From giant generators in plants fueled in a variety of ways (nuclear power plants, hydroelectric power plants, etc.), the voltage is increased by setup transformers in order to send the electricity over transmission lines to smaller substations. It is here that the voltage is decreased by the use of a step-down transformer and the power is carried along the distribution lines to a home, where a final step-down transformer decreases the voltage for energy consumption within the average home.
North America uses a 60 hertz (Hz) AC (alternating current) power system. Though a typical household is filled with electrical wiring, the typical wire contains three individual strands of wire which carry the electricity. Most household appliances utilize only one wire at a time, but the three wires are bundled together in order to keep the current cycling at different points in time. This, in turn, allows the charges to cancel one another out, resulting in an overall neutral charge (hence, alternating current). If these three wires are not run closely enough together or are improperly insulated, a "hot spot" is created and very high magnetic fields are the result.
When an electrical current travels through the wiring or into an appliance, it produces an electromagnetic field, which consists of the electric field which is always present (even when the appliance is switched off) and the magnetic field which occurs when the power is switch on to the appliance. While it is generally accepted that the electric field is harmless, it is suspected that the magnetic fields can be related to cancer or other health problems. Thus, companies have been quick to offer EMF detection devices to help the average homeowner locate and isolate areas of strong electromagnetic fields.
However, in addition to the EM present because of electrical wiring and appliance, EMF is found in nature as well. The earth itself has a unique magnetic field (referred to as a geomagnetic field) and anyone who has handled a compass is probably well aware of that fact. The earth produces EMFs, mainly in the form of DC (direct current, also called static fields). Electric fields are produced by thunderstorm activity in the atmosphere. Near the ground, the DC electric field averages less than 200 volts per meter (V/m). Much stronger fields, typically about 50,000 V/m, occur directly beneath electrical storms.
Magnetic fields are thought to be produced by electric currents flowing deep within the earth's molten core. The DC magnetic field averages around 500 milligauss (mG). This number is larger than typical AC electric power magnetic fields, but DC fields do not create currents within humans and animals like AC currents can do.
Factors as subtle as water running against certain geological stratas of rock can also produce electromagnetic fields. The sun's solar flare activity can also greatly effect the magnetic fields of the earth, as well as cosmic radiation that is able to penetrate the earth's atmosphere.
No matter the source of the EM field, all magnetic fields are measured in units called Gauss (named for Charles Friedrich Gauss, 1777-1855) or Tesla (named for Nikola Tesla, 1856-1943). While these units of measurement actually record the magnetic flux rather than the density of a field, it is unimportant for our means. Here in the United States, EM fields are measured in milliGauss (mG) while the Tesla measurements are most commonly expressed in Europe. In essence, 1mG=.01 microTesla.
For the purpose of ghost hunting, most of the EM equipment used focuses specifically on the ELF (Extremely Low Frequency) range of less than 60 Hertz and is expressed almost exclusively in terms of milliGauss (mG).
Using EMF Detectors
Before attempting to use any EM detection device as part of a ghost hunt or an investigation, it is absolutely essential that the operator has read through the instruction manual thoroughly and is familiar with operating the device. To attempt using an EMF detector as part of any serious inquiry into the paranormal without fully comprehending how to properly operate the unit is an open invitation to false-readings and misleading EMF alerts.
Most of the time, operation of an EMF detector is usually considered as simple as switching on the power and moving the unit around until it registers a source of EM radiation. However, we here at the NL-PSI strongly recommend that you first use your EMF detector in your home as a training exercise to allow you to become familiar with the various sources of EM radiation in an average household. You will often find that ELF radiation is strongest in one particular area. For example, your computer monitor at work may have its greatest EM radiation level directly in back of it, a bedside clock radio may emit EM radiation to one particular side, etc.
Most of the commercially available EMF detectors are "single-axis" meters. Although even a simple explanation of what this means can confuse most non-technical users, it is very important to understand how this property affects the measurements you take.
A magnetic field has two basic properties: Its strength (or level) which is measured in mG, and its direction. Most people have no problem understanding that magnetic field levels are measured in units of mG, but the majority of measurements taken by an inexperienced operator with a single-axis meter are flawed. The problem arises from the fact that magnetic fields are directional (remember that it is the earth's magnetic field which causes a compass needle to point to magnetic north).
Most of the time, operators simply point the meter "at" the area they are trying to measure. Although it is possible that this may lead to "correct" measurements, it is much more likely that the level indicated by the meter will be lower than the actual level present. Also, try to keep in mind that all meters have different ranges of accuracy, normally ranging from +/- 1% to +/-4%. Your instruction manual will include this information and it is important to note this factor when recording your readings.
Instead of pointing the meter "at" what is being measured, the user should try slowly and gently orienting the meter in different directions until a maximum level is indicated on the display. Turn the meter clockwise, counterclockwise, sideways, leaning forward, leaning backward, and all combination of angles and distances in between. This may seem a little awkward, but it is absolutely necessary to insure accurate readings.
Hold the meter in front of and around the source of radiation and continue to orient the meter at various angles until a maximum reading is found. If you take the time to become familiar with this process, you will find that the reading displayed is greatly affected by the orientation of the meter. This is because the magnetic field not only has a strength or level associated with it, but a direction as well. Most meters respond very well to EM fields that run across the meter from left to right (or right to left), but a very strong magnetic field running in a direction from top to bottom or front to back will show little or sometimes no reading on the display of many meters.
If it is not possible to insure that you are using your single-axis meter correctly, consider upgrading your EMF detector to a 3-axis instrument such as the Trifield Natural EM Meter or the Teslatronics Model 70. These are far more sensitive units (The TriField meter can actually pick up the EM signatures produced by the human body at a distance of ten feet, through a wall!) and are able to monitor a wide range of energy patterns, such as microwave and radio wave radiation as well as EMF.
The 3-axis meters, because of their inherent sensitivity, will get accurate readings very quickly, but have many quirks unique to their very nature. For instance, trying to measure radio frequency (RF) radiation in a room with a TriField meter may prove difficult because the meter will pick up energies being reflected from the four walls, the ceiling and floor, and even the user's body. Some paranormal investigators report that they find using the TriField meter as an active "scanning" device by moving the unit from side to side a very difficult task because of the fluctuations of the readings.
They recommend using the TriField as a stationary device. Rather than "scanning" for EM activity that might indicate a paranormal anomaly, simply let the device sit in one area and its audible alarm will alert you when it senses an unusual EM source.
Once you have spent enough time to become intimately familiar with the subtitles of operating your EMF meter and are confident in your abilities to obtain accurate readings with it, it is time to switch over to a fresh battery and try it again in the dark. Think of it as a training exercise.
With the lights off, go through your home again with the meter, focusing only on your readings. Try to keep in mind that magnetic fields can travel through walls while trying to locate the source of your readings. Once you are fully confident that you have mastered operating your meter in dark conditions, it may be time to actually try it "in the field."
EMF Detectors and Ghost Hunting
The sole reason many investigators and ghost hunters purchase an Electromagnetic Field Detector is to help them locate ghosts. This is not what an EMF detector does and it was never designed for this purpose. Its purpose is to locate sources of electromagnetic radiation and to offer a reading of the relative strength (and direction if you are a skilled and competent operator) of the EM field.
However, EMF can be a great tool to help locate possible areas of ghostly or spiritual energy if you approach the matter appropriately, because it the generally accepted theory that spirits do emit an extremely low frequency EM field (i.e. less than 60 Hz) which commonly registers between 2.0 and 7.0 mG in strength. However, these are only general guidelines, as there have been marked exceptions in field research. Some reports put the spirit energies in excess of 10.0 mG and some incidents have registered readings over 100 mG when spirits have made their presence known. Use your best judgment when recording readings!
When you begin a ghost hunt or an investigation, its is of paramount importance that you obtain accurate "background" readings of the location you are in and to make accurate notes of any source of EM radiation. If at all possible, creating a scaled map of your site and clearly marking every EMF reading you obtain and its precise location. A map like this will prove invaluable to you in helping to locate anomalies that may indicate the presence of a ghost or spirit energies.
For instance, a cemetery location is a very common site for ghost hunts. Begin in one corner of the cemetery and start taking readings approximately three feet off the ground (waist height) and begin following the first row of grave markers, taking readings as you move along. Then, follow the second row with your readings, then to the third and so forth. By the time you are done, you will have a very good idea of the EM "environment" you will be conducting your hunt in. Be sure to carefully review your map. A series of readings in a straight line may have a very earthly explanation, such as an underground power line.
The same principles may be applied to an investigation conducted indoors. While the most accurate indications of EMF which can be attributed to "paranormal" sources are obtained when the master power switch to the location is switched off and absolutely no electricity is flowing through the location, this is grossly impractical in a lot of situations. The mapping technique is highly advisable in this instance, but more care must be taken to find every single source of EM radiation in the location.
Once the background readings have been taken and the hunt/investigation is commenced in earnest, the EMF operator will continue to "scan" the area for EM readings that are anomalous. That is, you are specifically looking for any EM reading that does not have a plausible explanation or is not indicated on the map of the "EM Environment" that you have created.
Now, you must be aware that rarely does a ghost's (or spiritual energy's) EM pattern stay in one location for long. If your reading stays steady and does not fluctuate, odds are that you are reading something with a plausible explanation, such as an electrical device on the other side of a wall. The basic rule of thumb here is if the field remains constant, it's artificially generated; if it fluctuates erratically or demonstrates movement, it's "paranormal."
In any event, it is very much the responsibility of a good investigator to insure that any logical or plausible explanation is explored before declaring the readings to be attributable to a ghost or spirit energies. But, remember that you are looking for erratic fields of energy with no physical source.
The epitome of this type of phenomena are self-contained fields of EM energy that either hover in midair or demonstrate marked patterns of movement. Upon detecting such a field, it is wise to start taking photographs immediately, because these types of anomalies have a quirky habit of disappearing quickly.
The final thoughts concerning the EMF detector and the ghost hunter is it is very important to insure that the meter is maintained correctly. These are very sensitive, and often expensive, pieces of equipment that are damaged easily. Treat them delicately and take precautions to insure that your meter is not subjected to extreme shocks, like being dropped or shaken violently. Be certain to always use a fresh battery in your meter, being careful to use the recommended size and type as indicated in your instruction pamphlet. Always be sure to remove the battery if you plan to store the meter for any length of time. Also, be sure to store the unit is a cool, dry place and never, never drop your meter or allow it to be subjected to abuse. Taking the time to follow these guidelines will help to insure that your investment will continue to serve you in the field of the paranormal for years to come.
NOTE* MSSPI provides articles and links for research and educational purposes only. We make no profit from the posting of these articles. MSSPI does not claim or deny the validity of the information contained in them. All opinions and statements are purely those of the author. We leave it up to you to decide for yourself the validity of the information provided.
by D.R. Smith
Northern Lights Paranormal Studies and Investigations
Fargo, North Dakota
In recent years, many paranormal investigators have adopted Electromagnetic Field (EMF) detection devices as a plausible tool for detecting the presence of ghosts and calculating the approximate location of spirit energies. In fact, it is probably the paranormal community which accounts for a very large percentage of the sales of EMF detection and monitoring equipment gear. However, only a handful of ghost hunters can fully explain the principles behind EMF and demonstrate proper use of the detection equipment.
Hopefully, this article will help to explain the basics of EMF detection. This article is not intended to be a technical treatise on electromagnetic fields, waves and radiation, but rather is aimed towards informing our ghost hunting brethren of some little known facts and information that might prove to be useful to them.
Electromagnetic Field Detectors
During the cellular telephone boom of the early 1990's, many theories abounded concerning the ill effects generated to the human body from exposure to ELF (extremely low frequency) magnetic fields in numerous scientific and medical journals. Theories ranged from those explaining that EMF exposure could possibly effect the body's immune system to theories which proposed that EMF exposure could be directly correlated to certain types of cancer.
Although evidence proving a direct "cause and effect" link between EMF and health problems has never been established, prestigious and recognized authorities (including the United States Environmental Protection Agency) have recommended "prudent avoidance" of ELF magnetic fields on a prolonged basis until further research leads to more conclusive results.
So, to serve the public's interest, many companies began developing simple equipment to both detect the presence of ELF magnetic fields and to measure their relative strength. Almost anyone who has purchased an EMF detector and read through the directions included with the unit has an understanding of how to operate the unit and a strong idea of where to find magnetic fields within the home. Common sources for household EM readings include such mundane objects as computer monitors, cellular telephones, bedside clock radios, and microwave ovens.
There are many different models of EMF detector currently available on the market, ranging from basic EM detection circuit boards (retailing around $5 each), to limited range user friendly models (the NL-PSI members all own ELF-Zone EMF detectors purchased in an e-Bay auction for $10 each), to incredibly sensitive units such as the Natural Trifield Meter (expect to pay a minimum of $150 for the basic model up to $300 for the more advanced models). EMF detection equipment is widely available from numerous sources on the world wide web and mail order scientific supply houses such as Edmund Scientific.
General Information concerning EMF
The electromagnetic spectrum covers an enormous range of frequencies ranging from invisible fields to visible light and beyond. These frequencies are expressed in cycles per second (i.e., Hz). Electric power (60 Hz in North America, 50 Hz in most other places) is in the extremely-low-frequency range, which includes frequencies below 3000 Hz.
The higher the frequency, the shorter the distance between one wave and the next, and the greater the amount of energy in the field. Microwave frequency fields, with wavelengths of several inches, have enough energy to cause heating in conducting material. Still higher frequencies like X-rays cause ionization—the breaking of molecular bonds, which damages genetic material. In comparison, power frequency fields have wavelengths of more than 3100 miles (5000 km) and consequently have very low energy levels that do not cause heating or ionization. However, AC fields do produce weak electric currents in conducting objects, including people and animals.
In order to understand how electromagnetic fields operate within a home, we must first understand some of the basic principles of electricity. Without going into great detail, it is safe to assume that most people are aware that the electricity which powers their homes is brought to them by an enormous power system which covers most of the country.
From giant generators in plants fueled in a variety of ways (nuclear power plants, hydroelectric power plants, etc.), the voltage is increased by setup transformers in order to send the electricity over transmission lines to smaller substations. It is here that the voltage is decreased by the use of a step-down transformer and the power is carried along the distribution lines to a home, where a final step-down transformer decreases the voltage for energy consumption within the average home.
North America uses a 60 hertz (Hz) AC (alternating current) power system. Though a typical household is filled with electrical wiring, the typical wire contains three individual strands of wire which carry the electricity. Most household appliances utilize only one wire at a time, but the three wires are bundled together in order to keep the current cycling at different points in time. This, in turn, allows the charges to cancel one another out, resulting in an overall neutral charge (hence, alternating current). If these three wires are not run closely enough together or are improperly insulated, a "hot spot" is created and very high magnetic fields are the result.
When an electrical current travels through the wiring or into an appliance, it produces an electromagnetic field, which consists of the electric field which is always present (even when the appliance is switched off) and the magnetic field which occurs when the power is switch on to the appliance. While it is generally accepted that the electric field is harmless, it is suspected that the magnetic fields can be related to cancer or other health problems. Thus, companies have been quick to offer EMF detection devices to help the average homeowner locate and isolate areas of strong electromagnetic fields.
However, in addition to the EM present because of electrical wiring and appliance, EMF is found in nature as well. The earth itself has a unique magnetic field (referred to as a geomagnetic field) and anyone who has handled a compass is probably well aware of that fact. The earth produces EMFs, mainly in the form of DC (direct current, also called static fields). Electric fields are produced by thunderstorm activity in the atmosphere. Near the ground, the DC electric field averages less than 200 volts per meter (V/m). Much stronger fields, typically about 50,000 V/m, occur directly beneath electrical storms.
Magnetic fields are thought to be produced by electric currents flowing deep within the earth's molten core. The DC magnetic field averages around 500 milligauss (mG). This number is larger than typical AC electric power magnetic fields, but DC fields do not create currents within humans and animals like AC currents can do.
Factors as subtle as water running against certain geological stratas of rock can also produce electromagnetic fields. The sun's solar flare activity can also greatly effect the magnetic fields of the earth, as well as cosmic radiation that is able to penetrate the earth's atmosphere.
No matter the source of the EM field, all magnetic fields are measured in units called Gauss (named for Charles Friedrich Gauss, 1777-1855) or Tesla (named for Nikola Tesla, 1856-1943). While these units of measurement actually record the magnetic flux rather than the density of a field, it is unimportant for our means. Here in the United States, EM fields are measured in milliGauss (mG) while the Tesla measurements are most commonly expressed in Europe. In essence, 1mG=.01 microTesla.
For the purpose of ghost hunting, most of the EM equipment used focuses specifically on the ELF (Extremely Low Frequency) range of less than 60 Hertz and is expressed almost exclusively in terms of milliGauss (mG).
Using EMF Detectors
Before attempting to use any EM detection device as part of a ghost hunt or an investigation, it is absolutely essential that the operator has read through the instruction manual thoroughly and is familiar with operating the device. To attempt using an EMF detector as part of any serious inquiry into the paranormal without fully comprehending how to properly operate the unit is an open invitation to false-readings and misleading EMF alerts.
Most of the time, operation of an EMF detector is usually considered as simple as switching on the power and moving the unit around until it registers a source of EM radiation. However, we here at the NL-PSI strongly recommend that you first use your EMF detector in your home as a training exercise to allow you to become familiar with the various sources of EM radiation in an average household. You will often find that ELF radiation is strongest in one particular area. For example, your computer monitor at work may have its greatest EM radiation level directly in back of it, a bedside clock radio may emit EM radiation to one particular side, etc.
Most of the commercially available EMF detectors are "single-axis" meters. Although even a simple explanation of what this means can confuse most non-technical users, it is very important to understand how this property affects the measurements you take.
A magnetic field has two basic properties: Its strength (or level) which is measured in mG, and its direction. Most people have no problem understanding that magnetic field levels are measured in units of mG, but the majority of measurements taken by an inexperienced operator with a single-axis meter are flawed. The problem arises from the fact that magnetic fields are directional (remember that it is the earth's magnetic field which causes a compass needle to point to magnetic north).
Most of the time, operators simply point the meter "at" the area they are trying to measure. Although it is possible that this may lead to "correct" measurements, it is much more likely that the level indicated by the meter will be lower than the actual level present. Also, try to keep in mind that all meters have different ranges of accuracy, normally ranging from +/- 1% to +/-4%. Your instruction manual will include this information and it is important to note this factor when recording your readings.
Instead of pointing the meter "at" what is being measured, the user should try slowly and gently orienting the meter in different directions until a maximum level is indicated on the display. Turn the meter clockwise, counterclockwise, sideways, leaning forward, leaning backward, and all combination of angles and distances in between. This may seem a little awkward, but it is absolutely necessary to insure accurate readings.
Hold the meter in front of and around the source of radiation and continue to orient the meter at various angles until a maximum reading is found. If you take the time to become familiar with this process, you will find that the reading displayed is greatly affected by the orientation of the meter. This is because the magnetic field not only has a strength or level associated with it, but a direction as well. Most meters respond very well to EM fields that run across the meter from left to right (or right to left), but a very strong magnetic field running in a direction from top to bottom or front to back will show little or sometimes no reading on the display of many meters.
If it is not possible to insure that you are using your single-axis meter correctly, consider upgrading your EMF detector to a 3-axis instrument such as the Trifield Natural EM Meter or the Teslatronics Model 70. These are far more sensitive units (The TriField meter can actually pick up the EM signatures produced by the human body at a distance of ten feet, through a wall!) and are able to monitor a wide range of energy patterns, such as microwave and radio wave radiation as well as EMF.
The 3-axis meters, because of their inherent sensitivity, will get accurate readings very quickly, but have many quirks unique to their very nature. For instance, trying to measure radio frequency (RF) radiation in a room with a TriField meter may prove difficult because the meter will pick up energies being reflected from the four walls, the ceiling and floor, and even the user's body. Some paranormal investigators report that they find using the TriField meter as an active "scanning" device by moving the unit from side to side a very difficult task because of the fluctuations of the readings.
They recommend using the TriField as a stationary device. Rather than "scanning" for EM activity that might indicate a paranormal anomaly, simply let the device sit in one area and its audible alarm will alert you when it senses an unusual EM source.
Once you have spent enough time to become intimately familiar with the subtitles of operating your EMF meter and are confident in your abilities to obtain accurate readings with it, it is time to switch over to a fresh battery and try it again in the dark. Think of it as a training exercise.
With the lights off, go through your home again with the meter, focusing only on your readings. Try to keep in mind that magnetic fields can travel through walls while trying to locate the source of your readings. Once you are fully confident that you have mastered operating your meter in dark conditions, it may be time to actually try it "in the field."
EMF Detectors and Ghost Hunting
The sole reason many investigators and ghost hunters purchase an Electromagnetic Field Detector is to help them locate ghosts. This is not what an EMF detector does and it was never designed for this purpose. Its purpose is to locate sources of electromagnetic radiation and to offer a reading of the relative strength (and direction if you are a skilled and competent operator) of the EM field.
However, EMF can be a great tool to help locate possible areas of ghostly or spiritual energy if you approach the matter appropriately, because it the generally accepted theory that spirits do emit an extremely low frequency EM field (i.e. less than 60 Hz) which commonly registers between 2.0 and 7.0 mG in strength. However, these are only general guidelines, as there have been marked exceptions in field research. Some reports put the spirit energies in excess of 10.0 mG and some incidents have registered readings over 100 mG when spirits have made their presence known. Use your best judgment when recording readings!
When you begin a ghost hunt or an investigation, its is of paramount importance that you obtain accurate "background" readings of the location you are in and to make accurate notes of any source of EM radiation. If at all possible, creating a scaled map of your site and clearly marking every EMF reading you obtain and its precise location. A map like this will prove invaluable to you in helping to locate anomalies that may indicate the presence of a ghost or spirit energies.
For instance, a cemetery location is a very common site for ghost hunts. Begin in one corner of the cemetery and start taking readings approximately three feet off the ground (waist height) and begin following the first row of grave markers, taking readings as you move along. Then, follow the second row with your readings, then to the third and so forth. By the time you are done, you will have a very good idea of the EM "environment" you will be conducting your hunt in. Be sure to carefully review your map. A series of readings in a straight line may have a very earthly explanation, such as an underground power line.
The same principles may be applied to an investigation conducted indoors. While the most accurate indications of EMF which can be attributed to "paranormal" sources are obtained when the master power switch to the location is switched off and absolutely no electricity is flowing through the location, this is grossly impractical in a lot of situations. The mapping technique is highly advisable in this instance, but more care must be taken to find every single source of EM radiation in the location.
Once the background readings have been taken and the hunt/investigation is commenced in earnest, the EMF operator will continue to "scan" the area for EM readings that are anomalous. That is, you are specifically looking for any EM reading that does not have a plausible explanation or is not indicated on the map of the "EM Environment" that you have created.
Now, you must be aware that rarely does a ghost's (or spiritual energy's) EM pattern stay in one location for long. If your reading stays steady and does not fluctuate, odds are that you are reading something with a plausible explanation, such as an electrical device on the other side of a wall. The basic rule of thumb here is if the field remains constant, it's artificially generated; if it fluctuates erratically or demonstrates movement, it's "paranormal."
In any event, it is very much the responsibility of a good investigator to insure that any logical or plausible explanation is explored before declaring the readings to be attributable to a ghost or spirit energies. But, remember that you are looking for erratic fields of energy with no physical source.
The epitome of this type of phenomena are self-contained fields of EM energy that either hover in midair or demonstrate marked patterns of movement. Upon detecting such a field, it is wise to start taking photographs immediately, because these types of anomalies have a quirky habit of disappearing quickly.
The final thoughts concerning the EMF detector and the ghost hunter is it is very important to insure that the meter is maintained correctly. These are very sensitive, and often expensive, pieces of equipment that are damaged easily. Treat them delicately and take precautions to insure that your meter is not subjected to extreme shocks, like being dropped or shaken violently. Be certain to always use a fresh battery in your meter, being careful to use the recommended size and type as indicated in your instruction pamphlet. Always be sure to remove the battery if you plan to store the meter for any length of time. Also, be sure to store the unit is a cool, dry place and never, never drop your meter or allow it to be subjected to abuse. Taking the time to follow these guidelines will help to insure that your investment will continue to serve you in the field of the paranormal for years to come.
NOTE* MSSPI provides articles and links for research and educational purposes only. We make no profit from the posting of these articles. MSSPI does not claim or deny the validity of the information contained in them. All opinions and statements are purely those of the author. We leave it up to you to decide for yourself the validity of the information provided.
Camera Shake and Image Stabilization
Camera Shake and Image Stabilization
A short Introduction
by J. Andrzej Wrotniak
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This non-technical article is intended to give you a brief introduction to the often-misunderstood issue of camera shake, and to image stabilization, offered in many cameras to combat this problem.
Camera shake and motion blur
Even mounted on a tripod, your camera is never perfectly still. Especially changes in its orientation (attitude, as opposed to the position) while the frame is being exposed bring a degree of motion blur to pictures. It is the movements of the direction in which the lens axis points which are much more harmful than any others.
If the amount of that blur is small enough, less than any image unsharpness due to finite lens/imager resolution and other factors, we will not see it. Otherwise we talk about visible effects of camera shake, something usually we want to avoid.
For the same variations in the lens axis direction, the amount of motion blur seen in pictures depends on (is directly proportional to) three factors:
•The lens focal length;
•Image magnification (from the sensor to the viewed print or screen size);
•Exposure time (within reasonable limits; we are talking fracions of a second).
If the focal length is expressed not in absolute terms but as 35 mm "full frame" equivalent (EFL), then the first two factors on the list merge into one: two lenses of the same EFL magnify camera shake to the same extent, regardless of the frame size.
Avoiding camera shake
To avoid the motion blur resulting from camera shake, shorter exposure times (faster shutter speeds) can be used. The generally accepted rule of thumb is that the slowest safely handholdable shutter speed is the reciprocal of the EFL. For example, with a 200 mm lens on a 35-mm camera, 1/200 s is generally considered safe.
For a Canon APS-C the corresponding actual focal length will be 135 mm, becaose the EFL multiplier is 1.6&rimes;. For Four Thirds, the multiplier is 2× hence a 100 mm lens will be equivalent to a 200 mm one on a full-frame camera.
Therefore we could rephrase the 1/EFL rule in terms of the actual focal length, F (in millimeters). For Canon APS-C cameras the nominal handheld exposure is 1/1.6F, for Four Thirds (Olympus and Panasonic) SLRs — 1/2F. Example: 1/100 s for a 50 mm lens on a Four Thirds camera.
This, obviously, depends on the photographer's picture-taking technique: how the camera is being held and shutter released. More experienced (or just more thoughtful) photographers can often get away with shutter speeds four times (2 EV) longer than the rule suggests (here: 1/50 s), while some people will get blurred pictures even at shutter speeds faster than our rule indicates.
Following a few simple points may provide you with one or two EV advantage when photographing from hand.
•If your camera has an optical finder, use it rather than the LCD monitor. This alone may allow you to use shutter speeds 2 to 4 times longer (1-2 EV) compared to holding the camera in your outstretched hands. (Actually, the 1/EFL rule assumes you are using the camera this way.)
•Avoid holding the camera in one hand only; use your left hand to craddle the body, palm up, with fingers supporting the lens barrel.
•Use only your fingertip to release the shutter; do not move the whole hand, and dont start the move to put your camera away even before the picture has been made.
•When standing, brace yourself with your feet wide, or lean against some support (tree, door frame, etc.). Keep your elbows against your body.
•Especially with longer lenses, use breath control, like in rifle shooting. Take a breath in, partially let it out, avoid breathing immediately before and during the shutter release. DOn't hold your breath for too long.
•Before taking the picture, check the shutter speed the camera is going to use. Even the simplest compacts display this information. If the speed is slower than our rule above says, try to suport the camera ahainst something
All this may often bring more improvement than buying a camera with image stabilization.
Image stabilization
Higher shutter speeds are not always feasible. At low or moderate ligh levels they will require a higher ISO settings in the camera, but this is possible only up to a certain limit, and at the expense of degrading the image quality. This is why many current digital cameras come with the image stabilization feature.
Solutions used here can be divided into two groups. Both use a motion sensor to detect in real time changes in camera/lens attitude, but then the information is used differently.
•Lens-based IS: the signal drives a micromotor which then moves rapidly a dedicated group of lens elements; this group changes the direction of the light leaving the lens towards the sensor, counteracting the camera axis movements; the image created on the sensor is more stable.
•Body-based systems: instead of "moving" the light before it reaches the sensor, the signal drives a micromotor moving the sensor itself; as if "chasing" the constantly moving image. The result is similar to that above.
In lens-based system the sensor itself is also built into the lens, so you pay for the IS every time you byi a new lens. The range of stabilized lenses may be quite limiter, too.
Makers of such systems (Canon, Nikon) claim that it can work better, because each implementation can be tweaked best to the lens in which it is contained. Those who offer the body-based approach (Pentax, Sony, Olympus) say that their way works just fine, thank you.
I suspect that the true reason behind Nikon's and Canon's approach was the exiisting investment in lens-based systems from the film era. In a few years we may see them adapt the body-IS technology.
There is no doubt, that being able to use image stabilization with any lens is a very attractive option for many camera users. Canon and Nikon offer IS only in some lenses, mostly with longer focal lengths (where this is most useful, anyway), and mostly at a premium. In other systems, every lens gets the benefit of image stabilization, regardles of when andd by whom it was made.
Some camera makers use the term "image stabilization" to describe program modes in which the sensor sensitivity (ISO rating) is set higher, to allow for fasters shutters. This is a misleading abuse of the term.
There are also solutions, mostly seen on low-end models, based on taking a number of motion picture frames and merging them together, shifted to compensate for the differences; they are not rarely satisfactory and remain out of scope of this discussion.
How much does IS help?
The manufacturers usually come up with some numbers describing the benefits of their IS systems. This is usually done in terms of how much longer shutter speeds become handholdable with IS than without, often expressed in terms of EV (exposure values). One EV means doubling (or halving) the shutter speed, so, for example, 3 EV means a factor of 8×.
Unfortunately, with no information whatsoever how these numbers were derived, they are worth no more than anecdotal evidence or ones generated off the ceiling in the marketing department.
The only reasonable approach to all such claims is to just ignore them. They are certainly not comparable between manufacturers.
We have to remember that camera shake is largely a stochastic process, one drawn by chance. You may get an umblurred frame at 1/15 s without IS, and the next one, shot under identical conditions at 1/30 s with IS may show motion blur; bad luck. In the transitional area of shutter speeds where IS really maters, it does not give you a guarantee of success; it only raises the probability.
This statistical improvement may depend on a number of factors. My experience strongly indicates that at higher shutter speeds IS is more effective than at lower ones. What this means is that shooting with unsteady hands and/or with longer lenses will benefit from IS more than shooting steady and/or with shorter ones.
A beginner using a moderately long lens may, for example, have a 50/50 chance of getting a no-blur picture at 1/125 s; with IS this may move down to 1/30 s, a gain of 2 EV. With the same lens, a more experienced user may get away with 1/30 s without, and with IS — 1/15 s, which is just 1 EV difference. Don't get it wrong: he still gets sharper pictures (or is capable of using slower speeds successfully), it is just that he benefits less from image stabilization.
A reasonable procedure to determine the advantage of image stabilization would involve taking a large number of pictures in two series: one with, ans one without IS. For each focal length both series would have to cover a wide enough range of shutter speeds, to determine at which speed the success (no-blur picture) rate reaches some agreed upon value, for example, 50%. The difference between these speed values (expressed in EV) with and without IS would be a good measure of the advantage gained. (I am assuming, obviously, that both series are taken under otherwise identical conditions, or with identical statistical mix of such conditions.)
The disavantage to such method is that it requires hunreds of frames to be shot, but this cannot be avoided. You cannot estimate a statistical property using just a few readings.
I have developed such a procedure and used it to test image stabilization on two Olympus SLRs: E-510 and E-3. The IS benefits ranged from about 1 EV at wide angle (EFL of 24 or 28 mm) to more than 2 EV (at EFL of 300 mm). Compare that to manufacturer's claims of "up to 5 EV" improvement.
This is not just Olympus, the practice is common in the camera industry.
Technically such claims may be true, because up to really means "we know of at least one such case". This is the same as promising "up to $30 million a year" earnings at Wal-Mart: it may happen, but don't expect it.
For a reasonable range of focal lengths (EFL 28 to 300 mm) and an average operator, I would expect the IS to bring in a difference ranging from 1 to 3 EV, regardless of the solution type, brand, or model, but depending on the factors discussed above.
How not to evaluate IS benefits
I have seen this error committed so many times, that it I feel it deserves a separate section in this article.
A reviewer says: "With IS we were getting sharp images at 100 mm EFL and 1/10 s; at this focal length the normal handholdable exposure is 1/100 s, therefore the IS briings an omprovement of 10× or 3.3 EV".
Wrong. This means nothing. DO a small experiment: turn the IS off; you'll be probably having good pictures at 1/40 s or so. Does that mean that a disabled IS gives an improvement of 2.5× (1.3 EV)? Just because your camera has an "IS" sticker on it?
The only right way to do it is to perform a with/without comparison, keeping all other things equal, and then you have to catch the region when the change occurs (i.e., the pictures start getting blurred); something similar, if not necessarily identical, to my procedure described above. Anything else is old wives' tales.
Posted 2009/02/28 Copyright © 2009 by J. Andrzej Wrotniak
See more camera and photography related articles here: http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/tech/
Note*Mississippi Society of Paranormal Investigators posts articles and links that might be of interest to the historical researcher and paranormal investigator. We make no profit from the posting of these articles and attempt to give credit of authorship were due. We post this information strictly for information, education and research purposes.
A short Introduction
by J. Andrzej Wrotniak
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This non-technical article is intended to give you a brief introduction to the often-misunderstood issue of camera shake, and to image stabilization, offered in many cameras to combat this problem.
Camera shake and motion blur
Even mounted on a tripod, your camera is never perfectly still. Especially changes in its orientation (attitude, as opposed to the position) while the frame is being exposed bring a degree of motion blur to pictures. It is the movements of the direction in which the lens axis points which are much more harmful than any others.
If the amount of that blur is small enough, less than any image unsharpness due to finite lens/imager resolution and other factors, we will not see it. Otherwise we talk about visible effects of camera shake, something usually we want to avoid.
For the same variations in the lens axis direction, the amount of motion blur seen in pictures depends on (is directly proportional to) three factors:
•The lens focal length;
•Image magnification (from the sensor to the viewed print or screen size);
•Exposure time (within reasonable limits; we are talking fracions of a second).
If the focal length is expressed not in absolute terms but as 35 mm "full frame" equivalent (EFL), then the first two factors on the list merge into one: two lenses of the same EFL magnify camera shake to the same extent, regardless of the frame size.
Avoiding camera shake
To avoid the motion blur resulting from camera shake, shorter exposure times (faster shutter speeds) can be used. The generally accepted rule of thumb is that the slowest safely handholdable shutter speed is the reciprocal of the EFL. For example, with a 200 mm lens on a 35-mm camera, 1/200 s is generally considered safe.
For a Canon APS-C the corresponding actual focal length will be 135 mm, becaose the EFL multiplier is 1.6&rimes;. For Four Thirds, the multiplier is 2× hence a 100 mm lens will be equivalent to a 200 mm one on a full-frame camera.
Therefore we could rephrase the 1/EFL rule in terms of the actual focal length, F (in millimeters). For Canon APS-C cameras the nominal handheld exposure is 1/1.6F, for Four Thirds (Olympus and Panasonic) SLRs — 1/2F. Example: 1/100 s for a 50 mm lens on a Four Thirds camera.
This, obviously, depends on the photographer's picture-taking technique: how the camera is being held and shutter released. More experienced (or just more thoughtful) photographers can often get away with shutter speeds four times (2 EV) longer than the rule suggests (here: 1/50 s), while some people will get blurred pictures even at shutter speeds faster than our rule indicates.
Following a few simple points may provide you with one or two EV advantage when photographing from hand.
•If your camera has an optical finder, use it rather than the LCD monitor. This alone may allow you to use shutter speeds 2 to 4 times longer (1-2 EV) compared to holding the camera in your outstretched hands. (Actually, the 1/EFL rule assumes you are using the camera this way.)
•Avoid holding the camera in one hand only; use your left hand to craddle the body, palm up, with fingers supporting the lens barrel.
•Use only your fingertip to release the shutter; do not move the whole hand, and dont start the move to put your camera away even before the picture has been made.
•When standing, brace yourself with your feet wide, or lean against some support (tree, door frame, etc.). Keep your elbows against your body.
•Especially with longer lenses, use breath control, like in rifle shooting. Take a breath in, partially let it out, avoid breathing immediately before and during the shutter release. DOn't hold your breath for too long.
•Before taking the picture, check the shutter speed the camera is going to use. Even the simplest compacts display this information. If the speed is slower than our rule above says, try to suport the camera ahainst something
All this may often bring more improvement than buying a camera with image stabilization.
Image stabilization
Higher shutter speeds are not always feasible. At low or moderate ligh levels they will require a higher ISO settings in the camera, but this is possible only up to a certain limit, and at the expense of degrading the image quality. This is why many current digital cameras come with the image stabilization feature.
Solutions used here can be divided into two groups. Both use a motion sensor to detect in real time changes in camera/lens attitude, but then the information is used differently.
•Lens-based IS: the signal drives a micromotor which then moves rapidly a dedicated group of lens elements; this group changes the direction of the light leaving the lens towards the sensor, counteracting the camera axis movements; the image created on the sensor is more stable.
•Body-based systems: instead of "moving" the light before it reaches the sensor, the signal drives a micromotor moving the sensor itself; as if "chasing" the constantly moving image. The result is similar to that above.
In lens-based system the sensor itself is also built into the lens, so you pay for the IS every time you byi a new lens. The range of stabilized lenses may be quite limiter, too.
Makers of such systems (Canon, Nikon) claim that it can work better, because each implementation can be tweaked best to the lens in which it is contained. Those who offer the body-based approach (Pentax, Sony, Olympus) say that their way works just fine, thank you.
I suspect that the true reason behind Nikon's and Canon's approach was the exiisting investment in lens-based systems from the film era. In a few years we may see them adapt the body-IS technology.
There is no doubt, that being able to use image stabilization with any lens is a very attractive option for many camera users. Canon and Nikon offer IS only in some lenses, mostly with longer focal lengths (where this is most useful, anyway), and mostly at a premium. In other systems, every lens gets the benefit of image stabilization, regardles of when andd by whom it was made.
Some camera makers use the term "image stabilization" to describe program modes in which the sensor sensitivity (ISO rating) is set higher, to allow for fasters shutters. This is a misleading abuse of the term.
There are also solutions, mostly seen on low-end models, based on taking a number of motion picture frames and merging them together, shifted to compensate for the differences; they are not rarely satisfactory and remain out of scope of this discussion.
How much does IS help?
The manufacturers usually come up with some numbers describing the benefits of their IS systems. This is usually done in terms of how much longer shutter speeds become handholdable with IS than without, often expressed in terms of EV (exposure values). One EV means doubling (or halving) the shutter speed, so, for example, 3 EV means a factor of 8×.
Unfortunately, with no information whatsoever how these numbers were derived, they are worth no more than anecdotal evidence or ones generated off the ceiling in the marketing department.
The only reasonable approach to all such claims is to just ignore them. They are certainly not comparable between manufacturers.
We have to remember that camera shake is largely a stochastic process, one drawn by chance. You may get an umblurred frame at 1/15 s without IS, and the next one, shot under identical conditions at 1/30 s with IS may show motion blur; bad luck. In the transitional area of shutter speeds where IS really maters, it does not give you a guarantee of success; it only raises the probability.
This statistical improvement may depend on a number of factors. My experience strongly indicates that at higher shutter speeds IS is more effective than at lower ones. What this means is that shooting with unsteady hands and/or with longer lenses will benefit from IS more than shooting steady and/or with shorter ones.
A beginner using a moderately long lens may, for example, have a 50/50 chance of getting a no-blur picture at 1/125 s; with IS this may move down to 1/30 s, a gain of 2 EV. With the same lens, a more experienced user may get away with 1/30 s without, and with IS — 1/15 s, which is just 1 EV difference. Don't get it wrong: he still gets sharper pictures (or is capable of using slower speeds successfully), it is just that he benefits less from image stabilization.
A reasonable procedure to determine the advantage of image stabilization would involve taking a large number of pictures in two series: one with, ans one without IS. For each focal length both series would have to cover a wide enough range of shutter speeds, to determine at which speed the success (no-blur picture) rate reaches some agreed upon value, for example, 50%. The difference between these speed values (expressed in EV) with and without IS would be a good measure of the advantage gained. (I am assuming, obviously, that both series are taken under otherwise identical conditions, or with identical statistical mix of such conditions.)
The disavantage to such method is that it requires hunreds of frames to be shot, but this cannot be avoided. You cannot estimate a statistical property using just a few readings.
I have developed such a procedure and used it to test image stabilization on two Olympus SLRs: E-510 and E-3. The IS benefits ranged from about 1 EV at wide angle (EFL of 24 or 28 mm) to more than 2 EV (at EFL of 300 mm). Compare that to manufacturer's claims of "up to 5 EV" improvement.
This is not just Olympus, the practice is common in the camera industry.
Technically such claims may be true, because up to really means "we know of at least one such case". This is the same as promising "up to $30 million a year" earnings at Wal-Mart: it may happen, but don't expect it.
For a reasonable range of focal lengths (EFL 28 to 300 mm) and an average operator, I would expect the IS to bring in a difference ranging from 1 to 3 EV, regardless of the solution type, brand, or model, but depending on the factors discussed above.
How not to evaluate IS benefits
I have seen this error committed so many times, that it I feel it deserves a separate section in this article.
A reviewer says: "With IS we were getting sharp images at 100 mm EFL and 1/10 s; at this focal length the normal handholdable exposure is 1/100 s, therefore the IS briings an omprovement of 10× or 3.3 EV".
Wrong. This means nothing. DO a small experiment: turn the IS off; you'll be probably having good pictures at 1/40 s or so. Does that mean that a disabled IS gives an improvement of 2.5× (1.3 EV)? Just because your camera has an "IS" sticker on it?
The only right way to do it is to perform a with/without comparison, keeping all other things equal, and then you have to catch the region when the change occurs (i.e., the pictures start getting blurred); something similar, if not necessarily identical, to my procedure described above. Anything else is old wives' tales.
Posted 2009/02/28 Copyright © 2009 by J. Andrzej Wrotniak
See more camera and photography related articles here: http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/tech/
Note*Mississippi Society of Paranormal Investigators posts articles and links that might be of interest to the historical researcher and paranormal investigator. We make no profit from the posting of these articles and attempt to give credit of authorship were due. We post this information strictly for information, education and research purposes.
False-Positive Agents- Series
About the Author
Kenneth Biddle is the Founder of the Paranormal Investigators & Research Association (PIRA) and The Explorers Club (TEC).He has also co-founded the United States Paranormal Alliance. Ken is a member of the Bucks County and Montgomery County Historical Societies. His Web site is: www.Parainvestigator.org.
MSSPI recommends researchers to read Mr. Biddle's books and guides. His website is a good source for information. We use some of his information in our training of new members pertaining to field investigations and evidence review. Read his work and form your own opinions. We recommend his book "A Guide To Paranormal Investigations" Book one in the Investigation Series, Published by WHG-PIRA Productions, Levitown, PA.
False-Positive Agents- Series
By Ken Biddle, Founder of PIRA
When I first started the hobby of ghost hunting, I knew very little about what I was doing or what I was looking for. (This is definitely a "learn-as-you-go" kind of hobby!) I remember being so excited to get my photos back after my first investigation to see if I had gotten an orb, an ecto, or even--dare I say--an apparition. When I looked at the photos, I didn't consider that they might actually be something other than what I believed them to be. I didn't want to hear anyone telling me that my pictures were of dust or a camera strap. What did people know? I was a ghost hunter, and I took these photos while on a ghost hunt! They must be real, and that was that!
Well, I was wrong. I've been investigating and researching paranormal activity for several years and have learned a lot since my first ghost hunt. I like to say that I have a lot of experience and experimentation under my $7.99 leather belt. The so-called "experts" who told me my photos were "false-positives" were right. What I have learned is how the environment can play tricks on us, our cameras, and just about every piece of our equipment. I've learned, too, that I have to look and listen to my surroundings and avoid many of the things that would ruin the kind of work I do.
This series of articles will deal with all the things that will cause false-positive results. First things first though. Let me explain just what a false-positive is. "False-positive" is a term used by investigators to describe any photo, video, audio recording, or technical reading that appears to be of a paranormal origin but is in fact caused by a natural occurrence. Sometimes it takes a lot of poking around to realize that a piece of evidence is actually a false-positive. Other times it's painfully obvious to others that you have a reflection, instead of an apparition. This is why we need to really REALLY look at the evidence we get.
Now, there are many false-positive agents out there, as you'll see in these articles. Some of them you may already be aware of, while others may come as a surprise to even the seasoned investigators. So, read on. Learn, experience, and share.
Reflections of the Camera Flash
When most people think of reflections, they think of seeing themselves in a mirror or catching a glimpse of themselves in a window. The types of reflections we're going to talk about here include these and many more we get in photographs. Keep in mind that since most of our investigations take place indoors or during the evening, the flash is almost always used.
What can cause a reflection to be caught on film? Your first thoughts are probably going to be of mirrors, glass windows, and picture frames. Well, that's just the beginning. You really need to look around at the surroundings you're filming. If you can see yourself in it, it will reflect the flash on your camera as well as the lights on your video camera and night-vision equipment. (This includes infrared light.)
Let's look at some of the things you'll find with reflective qualities that may cause false-positive results: Dust, brass, chrome, marble, china, silverware, high-polished wood surfaces, crystal, jewelry, glossy headstones, many light fixtures and glass in windows, picture frames, glossy painted surfaces, liquids, entertainment centers, and display cases.
The reflective surface is only part of the problem. Most point-and-shoot cameras in use today have the flash positioned just above the lens. This is both good and bad, the "good" being that many investigators believe this better helps catch those slightly transparent energies, and the "bad" being that this gives you a very high probability of getting a flash reflected straight back at the camera lens.
Glass is probably the second worst reflective object (with dust being in the number one spot, which we'll get more into a little later on). In a residence or any indoor investigation, glass seems to be everywhere. The television set, the entertainment center, coffee tables, and some shelving can contain glass panes which can bounce the flash back at your camera, not to mention the windows, picture frames, and mirrors. When the flash hits a reflective surface head-on, it will appear as a bright star. If the flash bounces off one surface and goes onto a wall, the reflection will be the same shape as the surface reflected. Okay, that sounds a bit confusing, so let me give you an example. Let's say that you take a photograph with your camera aimed down a hallway that has a picture frame on a sidewall. While looking down the hall, all you can see of the picture frame is a rectangular sliver, due to your angle of view. This "sliver" shape is what the reflection on an opposite wall will look like. When looking at photos, you'll be able to match up the shapes. I suggest you experiment at home by following the example above.
Now if the surface is close enough, you may get an "apparition" in your photograph. This happens a lot in museums or historical buildings where so many rooms are behind glass. People get right up on the glass and snap a picture. Boom- they just got an apparition of themselves! I often get e-mails from people sending me a picture with the caption, "I took this photo and it shows a face with a very bright orb!" This would be their own reflection and the reflection of the flash. In some photos, the room is bright enough that an automatic flash will not go off. That's when the "apparition" looks better, but it's still the photographer's image. In some cases, I've been able to make out what type of watch the person was wearing!
The best advice I can give is: Be aware. Look, and I mean really LOOK, at what you're about to photograph. Make a note of the reflective surfaces and understand what might happen (i.e., the flash will bounce off the polished brass bedposts and may cause a gold colored orb streaking across the photo, so it's better to cover them first!). By doing this, you'll keep the number of flash bulb false-positives down.
Camera Straps and the Vortex
My all-time favorite false-positive agent is the camera strap. There are so many photos of these plastered all over the net with captions like, "Genuine Vortex." It really bugs me to no end. Many ghost hunters just starting out find these types of photographs while going through old pictures. They see a white streak and immediately think they have a vortex. Now, stay with me here because these newbies have jumped full force into ghost hunting. Many of them believe that they've never had a strap on their camera. Presto! You have the ingredients for a camera strap vortex. Let me tell you, when you can see the braiding of the strap, it ain't no vortex!
There is a theory called "many orbs following each other." It tries to explain a vortex as many orbs following each other in line. This theory is severely flawed as well. Take a look at most of these vortex/straps. Make sure to notice how many of these usually enter and exit the same side of the photo, always looping around. Most cameras straps are attached to the right side of the camera, since the shutter release is also located on that side. Once again, look at the majority of these "looping" vortexes and ask this question: What side does it come in out of? The answer will mostly be the right side.
Now, some of you are probably saying, "What about the ones that don't loop around, but go across the picture?" Keep in mind that most cameras have a lens opening about a quarter-inch wide. When something is only a few inches in front of it, it doesn't take much to reach from one end to the other. The majority of these photographs are also taken vertically (with the camera turned on its side), which allows the camera strap to fall down in front of the lens. Well, they still show the same thing. They show a braided strap that gets bleached out by the camera flash. Usually the camera strap is connected to the same side as the shutter release.
I have only seen two photos that show what looks like a genuine vortex of energy. One was by a member of the Paranormal Investigators & Research Association (taken by Bob R.), and the other was from another team. In both cases, the energy actually came in toward the lens of the camera, ruling out a bleached strap. With Bob's photo, I know for sure there was no strap attached to his camera, since I was on scene to witness the event. Other than those two, I have yet to see another convincing vortex photo.
A vortex is a column of energy, usually running through several floors of a house or building. It is believed that this vortex represents a doorway between our world and the world of the dead. The key word here is "column" because a column goes up and down, not from one side of the camera's lens and then looping around and going back to the same point. We need to keep this in mind when viewing these types of photographs.
Another point to remember is distance. When viewing these types of photos, pay attention to the scene. Some have a vortex that is between the camera and a doorway five feet away. When you compare the relative size of some of these vortexes to known objects in the photo, these things should be a good one to two feet wide. In reality, when you actually figure out the distance in many, you'll find that the "vortex" is only about an inch or two away from the lens.
Ectoplasmic Mist
Ectoplasmic mist is the smoky, mist-like substance sometimes photographed and caught on video during investigations. It is still an unexplainable phenomenon to us, but we try to explain it anyway! Many theories have been tossed around about dealing with what ecto really is and what it represents. That is not what we're going to deal with here. After all, this article it a part of the false-positive series. This time around, we'll look into the natural causes that can duplicate the image of an ectoplasmic mist.
When you look over protocols and procedures of many paranormal groups, you'll always find the rule that states: "No smoking is permitted during an investigation." Have you ever wondered why? Well, just in case you have, here's the answer. The smoke from any cigarette or cigar can and will make its way in front of the lens, giving you a false-positive image of an ecto. I had the unfortunate experience of working with an individual who always seemed to get dozens of ecto photos no matter where we went. Time and again, cemetery after cemetery, she always got at least a dozen ectoplasmic mist photos. After some checking, we found out how this was happening. One night during another cemetery investigation, I photographed her walking around the middle of the cemetery--camera in one hand and a lit cigarette in the other. Every few feet, she was snapping another photograph. She never realized that she was creating her own ecto mist each shot.
The white smoke just does not dissipate in a few seconds. It lingers on in the air for a while. If you're anywhere near a smoker, there's a good chance you'll catch some in your photographs or on video. It's just as bad when you're indoors. The smoke can linger for many minutes in a closed house, moving into hallways and other rooms. During any investigation, a smoker's place should be established for those with the "habit." If you're indoors, take it outside; if you're outdoors, go far away from any area that is being investigated. This is a simple but serious precaution to keep the skeptics off your back.
An experiment I performed a while back involved a cigarette, an incense stick, and my camera. When the cigarette and incense stick were lit, the smoke from both traveled well beyond what I thought they would. I took several photos from 13 feet away, and the smoke came up just as if I had been three feet away.
Another false-positive agent for the ectoplasmic mist happens to be your own breath. Yes, during the colder months of the year, your breath freezes as soon as it passes your lips. The colder it is, the longer it lasts. We've all seen this, and we've all played with this neat effect when we were kids (some of us still do!). This is bad for two reasons: One, when you snap a photo of teammates, the teammates may appear to have an ectoplasmic mist around them or just near them. Of course, this depends on how close you actually are to them. To be technical, it actually depends on how close the flash on your camera is to them. From a good distance, you'll barely be able to see your teammate. When you're pretty close to them, their frozen breath will be illuminated as well as they are. Surprisingly, some teams actually post pictures of ghost hunters, standing in the snow, with the caption, "Look at the ecto around his head." (No, I'm not making this up.)
The second "bad" reason is that while you're taking a picture, the camera is usually held up to your face so you can see through the viewfinder (or just in front of your face when using a LCD screen). Most of you don't think about holding your breath, which will freeze and float in front of the camera lens as you take a photo or two. A good idea to keep in mind is this: hold your breath for three to five seconds before taking a photograph in cold weather. This should give ample time for the air to clear and allow you to snap a picture free of frost breath. Remember that you don't have to be huffing and puffing or just breathing heavy. Any camera will pick this up, as will video cameras. So, when you're out on a chilly night, take a moment and breathe into the light of a flashlight. If you can see your breath, so can the camera.
Orbs
I would take the chance in saying that 80 to 90 percent of orb photographs are of dust. This is because dust is always in the air and most of the photos you see are by amateur ghost hunters or people who aren't even looking for spirits! If you're not actively looking for ghosts, then you're not following any protocols or precautions that experienced investigators do.
I mentioned that dust is everywhere. Think that's a little overdoing it? Well, take a seat in any room of your residence on a bright sunny day. Take a look at that sunbeam streaking through the window and hitting the floor a few feet away. What do you see in that beam of light? Dust. You'll see little, tiny particles of dust that are just floating every which way. They move at different speeds, float in crazy patterns (up and down like a roller coaster), and yes, they even change direction.
These little particles will get in front of the lens of your camera. Being so small, they are "blurred," like when something gets too close to your eyes. The flash of the camera will light up the dust particle, actually bleaching it white. Poof! You've got an orb. Take note that during experiments, I've found that most white colored orbs were attributed to dust. We have yet to duplicate the orbs of various other colors, such as yellow, red, and blue.
Being outside is not nearly as bad as being indoors. Walking around an old cellar or basement will kick up tons of dust, causing a picture with "multiple" orbs. Brushing your hand on a doorknob or railing will do likewise. These photos are the types that contain many (about 50 or so) faint, white orbs. Many photos will turn out completely covered in orbs. These are not paranormal at all--only dirt.
You may ask me this, "Why are the orbs transparent then?" Good question, and I have an answer and an experiment you can try at home. Dust particles are very small, so much so that humans normally don't see the particles all the time. (There are some passing between you and the screen or magazine you're reading right now!) However, the lens of the camera is small enough to pick up these particles when they're close enough AND with the use of the flash.
Okay, try this out. Take a pencil and hold it so the point is straight up (yes, you can use a pen too). Hold it out at about arm's length and look at the point, with one eye closed. Nothing special, right? Right. You can clearly see the pencil (or pen) point. No big deal. Now, focus on the wall that's across from you. What happened? The point got a little blurry. Ok, still no big deal. Now bring the pencil point (carefully) up to about an inch from your eye (still pointing straight up and focusing on the far wall with one eye). See the difference now? The point of the pencil in your vision has now become transparent and blurs out to the sides. When moving it side to side, you can actually see "through" it. That's because your iris is larger then the pencil point and also curved, allowing you to be able to see the background around the pencil point. The pencil point represents a dust particle, and your eye represents the camera lens. The difference is that the flash bleached the dust particle white.
My advice to you is this: When reviewing photos of orbs, make it a common practice to accept only those that have some type of reading to back it up. If you can get an EMF spike or temperature drop (of course, that can't be explained) to back up the moment you captured the image of an orb, then it can be acceptable. It doesn't mean it's definitely a genuine orb, but at least you have some scientific reading to help it along. Oh, and the color is also taken into account. White orbs can easily be duplicated by dust, but I've been unable to get other color to come up naturally.
EVPs
Measurements are scientific, pictures are good, and video is better. But when it comes down to it, this investigator thinks that EVPs are just about the neatest form of evidence we can get. But, as with all of our evidence, there are natural things that can cause us to record false-positives. And since this is a series on false-positives, we'll be diving into some of these things!
The biggest cause of false-positive recordings that I've seen is that well-known habit of whispering. Although most organizations have rules against it, many amateur ghost hunters overlook this when investigating. Whispering happens. It's just a fact, and we sometimes don't realize it or are more often "sure" that the recorder won't pick us up. It can, it will, and it did happen. The best way to avoid causing a false EVP is to be aware of what you are doing. When you start recording, make sure to vocalize the rule. Tell everyone, "Okay, the recorder is going on. No whispering!" If someone does, make sure to note it, in a clear voice, on the tape. This rule also applies to noises from passing cars and trucks, airplanes, trains, or someone walking into the room. If you can hear it, you can be sure that the recorder did as well. Make note of it by stating in a clear voice exactly what you heard and what it was (i.e., a passing car). This will at least cut down on "mysterious" voices and noises.
When you use any type of analog recording device (cassette), I strongly recommend the use of a microphone. The internal gears and mechanisms of the recording device will cause static, white noise and some clicks and pops. Many amateur ghost hunters hear this and claim they have an EVP. Unfortunately, it's not. It's easy for the imagination to "pick up" words or noises in the replay. EVPs should be clear and understandable, without having to guess at what's being said.
Another possibility exists for false-positive EVP recording: radio waves. Radio wave interference has been a suggested false-positive agent by many skeptics and investigators alike. The possibility does indeed exist. I say this because I've experienced answering machines that have picked up cordless telephone conversations, clock radios that have picked up CB communications, and even a TV that picked up a radio broadcast. I know many of you can relate. So, even though our tape recorders, micro-cassette recorders, and digital recorders were not meant to receive radio waves, being an audio device makes them subject to scrutiny. When conducting any kind of recordings, be sure to ask specific questions that will have specific, short answers. Usually any EVPs that we get are just a few words anyway, so keep them that way. When the answer to your question comes just after you ask and it is an answer to that specific question, then it can be used as an EVP.
It's amazing how much a recorder will pick up. Simply walking across the room above where a recording is taking place can turn up "mysterious" footsteps. A soft, quick intake of breath can be heard as a "sigh" when a tape is played back.
In closing, there are two points I've tried to make with this article. One, be aware of what's around you when conducting an investigation. LOOK, LISTEN, then LOOK AND LISTEN some more. Two, not every piece of evidence is genuine simply because you think or want it so. If you're part of a team or know those on a team, use them. I send my evidence out to other members in case they can pick up something I missed. It saves me time and embarrassment. Do yourself a favor and do the same!
Note* MSSPI provides articles and links for research and educational purposes only. We make no profit from the posting of these articles. MSSPI does not claim or deny the validity of the information contained in them. All opinions and statements are purely those of the author. We leave it up to you to decide for yourself the validity of the information provided.
Kenneth Biddle is the Founder of the Paranormal Investigators & Research Association (PIRA) and The Explorers Club (TEC).He has also co-founded the United States Paranormal Alliance. Ken is a member of the Bucks County and Montgomery County Historical Societies. His Web site is: www.Parainvestigator.org.
MSSPI recommends researchers to read Mr. Biddle's books and guides. His website is a good source for information. We use some of his information in our training of new members pertaining to field investigations and evidence review. Read his work and form your own opinions. We recommend his book "A Guide To Paranormal Investigations" Book one in the Investigation Series, Published by WHG-PIRA Productions, Levitown, PA.
False-Positive Agents- Series
By Ken Biddle, Founder of PIRA
When I first started the hobby of ghost hunting, I knew very little about what I was doing or what I was looking for. (This is definitely a "learn-as-you-go" kind of hobby!) I remember being so excited to get my photos back after my first investigation to see if I had gotten an orb, an ecto, or even--dare I say--an apparition. When I looked at the photos, I didn't consider that they might actually be something other than what I believed them to be. I didn't want to hear anyone telling me that my pictures were of dust or a camera strap. What did people know? I was a ghost hunter, and I took these photos while on a ghost hunt! They must be real, and that was that!
Well, I was wrong. I've been investigating and researching paranormal activity for several years and have learned a lot since my first ghost hunt. I like to say that I have a lot of experience and experimentation under my $7.99 leather belt. The so-called "experts" who told me my photos were "false-positives" were right. What I have learned is how the environment can play tricks on us, our cameras, and just about every piece of our equipment. I've learned, too, that I have to look and listen to my surroundings and avoid many of the things that would ruin the kind of work I do.
This series of articles will deal with all the things that will cause false-positive results. First things first though. Let me explain just what a false-positive is. "False-positive" is a term used by investigators to describe any photo, video, audio recording, or technical reading that appears to be of a paranormal origin but is in fact caused by a natural occurrence. Sometimes it takes a lot of poking around to realize that a piece of evidence is actually a false-positive. Other times it's painfully obvious to others that you have a reflection, instead of an apparition. This is why we need to really REALLY look at the evidence we get.
Now, there are many false-positive agents out there, as you'll see in these articles. Some of them you may already be aware of, while others may come as a surprise to even the seasoned investigators. So, read on. Learn, experience, and share.
Reflections of the Camera Flash
When most people think of reflections, they think of seeing themselves in a mirror or catching a glimpse of themselves in a window. The types of reflections we're going to talk about here include these and many more we get in photographs. Keep in mind that since most of our investigations take place indoors or during the evening, the flash is almost always used.
What can cause a reflection to be caught on film? Your first thoughts are probably going to be of mirrors, glass windows, and picture frames. Well, that's just the beginning. You really need to look around at the surroundings you're filming. If you can see yourself in it, it will reflect the flash on your camera as well as the lights on your video camera and night-vision equipment. (This includes infrared light.)
Let's look at some of the things you'll find with reflective qualities that may cause false-positive results: Dust, brass, chrome, marble, china, silverware, high-polished wood surfaces, crystal, jewelry, glossy headstones, many light fixtures and glass in windows, picture frames, glossy painted surfaces, liquids, entertainment centers, and display cases.
The reflective surface is only part of the problem. Most point-and-shoot cameras in use today have the flash positioned just above the lens. This is both good and bad, the "good" being that many investigators believe this better helps catch those slightly transparent energies, and the "bad" being that this gives you a very high probability of getting a flash reflected straight back at the camera lens.
Glass is probably the second worst reflective object (with dust being in the number one spot, which we'll get more into a little later on). In a residence or any indoor investigation, glass seems to be everywhere. The television set, the entertainment center, coffee tables, and some shelving can contain glass panes which can bounce the flash back at your camera, not to mention the windows, picture frames, and mirrors. When the flash hits a reflective surface head-on, it will appear as a bright star. If the flash bounces off one surface and goes onto a wall, the reflection will be the same shape as the surface reflected. Okay, that sounds a bit confusing, so let me give you an example. Let's say that you take a photograph with your camera aimed down a hallway that has a picture frame on a sidewall. While looking down the hall, all you can see of the picture frame is a rectangular sliver, due to your angle of view. This "sliver" shape is what the reflection on an opposite wall will look like. When looking at photos, you'll be able to match up the shapes. I suggest you experiment at home by following the example above.
Now if the surface is close enough, you may get an "apparition" in your photograph. This happens a lot in museums or historical buildings where so many rooms are behind glass. People get right up on the glass and snap a picture. Boom- they just got an apparition of themselves! I often get e-mails from people sending me a picture with the caption, "I took this photo and it shows a face with a very bright orb!" This would be their own reflection and the reflection of the flash. In some photos, the room is bright enough that an automatic flash will not go off. That's when the "apparition" looks better, but it's still the photographer's image. In some cases, I've been able to make out what type of watch the person was wearing!
The best advice I can give is: Be aware. Look, and I mean really LOOK, at what you're about to photograph. Make a note of the reflective surfaces and understand what might happen (i.e., the flash will bounce off the polished brass bedposts and may cause a gold colored orb streaking across the photo, so it's better to cover them first!). By doing this, you'll keep the number of flash bulb false-positives down.
Camera Straps and the Vortex
My all-time favorite false-positive agent is the camera strap. There are so many photos of these plastered all over the net with captions like, "Genuine Vortex." It really bugs me to no end. Many ghost hunters just starting out find these types of photographs while going through old pictures. They see a white streak and immediately think they have a vortex. Now, stay with me here because these newbies have jumped full force into ghost hunting. Many of them believe that they've never had a strap on their camera. Presto! You have the ingredients for a camera strap vortex. Let me tell you, when you can see the braiding of the strap, it ain't no vortex!
There is a theory called "many orbs following each other." It tries to explain a vortex as many orbs following each other in line. This theory is severely flawed as well. Take a look at most of these vortex/straps. Make sure to notice how many of these usually enter and exit the same side of the photo, always looping around. Most cameras straps are attached to the right side of the camera, since the shutter release is also located on that side. Once again, look at the majority of these "looping" vortexes and ask this question: What side does it come in out of? The answer will mostly be the right side.
Now, some of you are probably saying, "What about the ones that don't loop around, but go across the picture?" Keep in mind that most cameras have a lens opening about a quarter-inch wide. When something is only a few inches in front of it, it doesn't take much to reach from one end to the other. The majority of these photographs are also taken vertically (with the camera turned on its side), which allows the camera strap to fall down in front of the lens. Well, they still show the same thing. They show a braided strap that gets bleached out by the camera flash. Usually the camera strap is connected to the same side as the shutter release.
I have only seen two photos that show what looks like a genuine vortex of energy. One was by a member of the Paranormal Investigators & Research Association (taken by Bob R.), and the other was from another team. In both cases, the energy actually came in toward the lens of the camera, ruling out a bleached strap. With Bob's photo, I know for sure there was no strap attached to his camera, since I was on scene to witness the event. Other than those two, I have yet to see another convincing vortex photo.
A vortex is a column of energy, usually running through several floors of a house or building. It is believed that this vortex represents a doorway between our world and the world of the dead. The key word here is "column" because a column goes up and down, not from one side of the camera's lens and then looping around and going back to the same point. We need to keep this in mind when viewing these types of photographs.
Another point to remember is distance. When viewing these types of photos, pay attention to the scene. Some have a vortex that is between the camera and a doorway five feet away. When you compare the relative size of some of these vortexes to known objects in the photo, these things should be a good one to two feet wide. In reality, when you actually figure out the distance in many, you'll find that the "vortex" is only about an inch or two away from the lens.
Ectoplasmic Mist
Ectoplasmic mist is the smoky, mist-like substance sometimes photographed and caught on video during investigations. It is still an unexplainable phenomenon to us, but we try to explain it anyway! Many theories have been tossed around about dealing with what ecto really is and what it represents. That is not what we're going to deal with here. After all, this article it a part of the false-positive series. This time around, we'll look into the natural causes that can duplicate the image of an ectoplasmic mist.
When you look over protocols and procedures of many paranormal groups, you'll always find the rule that states: "No smoking is permitted during an investigation." Have you ever wondered why? Well, just in case you have, here's the answer. The smoke from any cigarette or cigar can and will make its way in front of the lens, giving you a false-positive image of an ecto. I had the unfortunate experience of working with an individual who always seemed to get dozens of ecto photos no matter where we went. Time and again, cemetery after cemetery, she always got at least a dozen ectoplasmic mist photos. After some checking, we found out how this was happening. One night during another cemetery investigation, I photographed her walking around the middle of the cemetery--camera in one hand and a lit cigarette in the other. Every few feet, she was snapping another photograph. She never realized that she was creating her own ecto mist each shot.
The white smoke just does not dissipate in a few seconds. It lingers on in the air for a while. If you're anywhere near a smoker, there's a good chance you'll catch some in your photographs or on video. It's just as bad when you're indoors. The smoke can linger for many minutes in a closed house, moving into hallways and other rooms. During any investigation, a smoker's place should be established for those with the "habit." If you're indoors, take it outside; if you're outdoors, go far away from any area that is being investigated. This is a simple but serious precaution to keep the skeptics off your back.
An experiment I performed a while back involved a cigarette, an incense stick, and my camera. When the cigarette and incense stick were lit, the smoke from both traveled well beyond what I thought they would. I took several photos from 13 feet away, and the smoke came up just as if I had been three feet away.
Another false-positive agent for the ectoplasmic mist happens to be your own breath. Yes, during the colder months of the year, your breath freezes as soon as it passes your lips. The colder it is, the longer it lasts. We've all seen this, and we've all played with this neat effect when we were kids (some of us still do!). This is bad for two reasons: One, when you snap a photo of teammates, the teammates may appear to have an ectoplasmic mist around them or just near them. Of course, this depends on how close you actually are to them. To be technical, it actually depends on how close the flash on your camera is to them. From a good distance, you'll barely be able to see your teammate. When you're pretty close to them, their frozen breath will be illuminated as well as they are. Surprisingly, some teams actually post pictures of ghost hunters, standing in the snow, with the caption, "Look at the ecto around his head." (No, I'm not making this up.)
The second "bad" reason is that while you're taking a picture, the camera is usually held up to your face so you can see through the viewfinder (or just in front of your face when using a LCD screen). Most of you don't think about holding your breath, which will freeze and float in front of the camera lens as you take a photo or two. A good idea to keep in mind is this: hold your breath for three to five seconds before taking a photograph in cold weather. This should give ample time for the air to clear and allow you to snap a picture free of frost breath. Remember that you don't have to be huffing and puffing or just breathing heavy. Any camera will pick this up, as will video cameras. So, when you're out on a chilly night, take a moment and breathe into the light of a flashlight. If you can see your breath, so can the camera.
Orbs
I would take the chance in saying that 80 to 90 percent of orb photographs are of dust. This is because dust is always in the air and most of the photos you see are by amateur ghost hunters or people who aren't even looking for spirits! If you're not actively looking for ghosts, then you're not following any protocols or precautions that experienced investigators do.
I mentioned that dust is everywhere. Think that's a little overdoing it? Well, take a seat in any room of your residence on a bright sunny day. Take a look at that sunbeam streaking through the window and hitting the floor a few feet away. What do you see in that beam of light? Dust. You'll see little, tiny particles of dust that are just floating every which way. They move at different speeds, float in crazy patterns (up and down like a roller coaster), and yes, they even change direction.
These little particles will get in front of the lens of your camera. Being so small, they are "blurred," like when something gets too close to your eyes. The flash of the camera will light up the dust particle, actually bleaching it white. Poof! You've got an orb. Take note that during experiments, I've found that most white colored orbs were attributed to dust. We have yet to duplicate the orbs of various other colors, such as yellow, red, and blue.
Being outside is not nearly as bad as being indoors. Walking around an old cellar or basement will kick up tons of dust, causing a picture with "multiple" orbs. Brushing your hand on a doorknob or railing will do likewise. These photos are the types that contain many (about 50 or so) faint, white orbs. Many photos will turn out completely covered in orbs. These are not paranormal at all--only dirt.
You may ask me this, "Why are the orbs transparent then?" Good question, and I have an answer and an experiment you can try at home. Dust particles are very small, so much so that humans normally don't see the particles all the time. (There are some passing between you and the screen or magazine you're reading right now!) However, the lens of the camera is small enough to pick up these particles when they're close enough AND with the use of the flash.
Okay, try this out. Take a pencil and hold it so the point is straight up (yes, you can use a pen too). Hold it out at about arm's length and look at the point, with one eye closed. Nothing special, right? Right. You can clearly see the pencil (or pen) point. No big deal. Now, focus on the wall that's across from you. What happened? The point got a little blurry. Ok, still no big deal. Now bring the pencil point (carefully) up to about an inch from your eye (still pointing straight up and focusing on the far wall with one eye). See the difference now? The point of the pencil in your vision has now become transparent and blurs out to the sides. When moving it side to side, you can actually see "through" it. That's because your iris is larger then the pencil point and also curved, allowing you to be able to see the background around the pencil point. The pencil point represents a dust particle, and your eye represents the camera lens. The difference is that the flash bleached the dust particle white.
My advice to you is this: When reviewing photos of orbs, make it a common practice to accept only those that have some type of reading to back it up. If you can get an EMF spike or temperature drop (of course, that can't be explained) to back up the moment you captured the image of an orb, then it can be acceptable. It doesn't mean it's definitely a genuine orb, but at least you have some scientific reading to help it along. Oh, and the color is also taken into account. White orbs can easily be duplicated by dust, but I've been unable to get other color to come up naturally.
EVPs
Measurements are scientific, pictures are good, and video is better. But when it comes down to it, this investigator thinks that EVPs are just about the neatest form of evidence we can get. But, as with all of our evidence, there are natural things that can cause us to record false-positives. And since this is a series on false-positives, we'll be diving into some of these things!
The biggest cause of false-positive recordings that I've seen is that well-known habit of whispering. Although most organizations have rules against it, many amateur ghost hunters overlook this when investigating. Whispering happens. It's just a fact, and we sometimes don't realize it or are more often "sure" that the recorder won't pick us up. It can, it will, and it did happen. The best way to avoid causing a false EVP is to be aware of what you are doing. When you start recording, make sure to vocalize the rule. Tell everyone, "Okay, the recorder is going on. No whispering!" If someone does, make sure to note it, in a clear voice, on the tape. This rule also applies to noises from passing cars and trucks, airplanes, trains, or someone walking into the room. If you can hear it, you can be sure that the recorder did as well. Make note of it by stating in a clear voice exactly what you heard and what it was (i.e., a passing car). This will at least cut down on "mysterious" voices and noises.
When you use any type of analog recording device (cassette), I strongly recommend the use of a microphone. The internal gears and mechanisms of the recording device will cause static, white noise and some clicks and pops. Many amateur ghost hunters hear this and claim they have an EVP. Unfortunately, it's not. It's easy for the imagination to "pick up" words or noises in the replay. EVPs should be clear and understandable, without having to guess at what's being said.
Another possibility exists for false-positive EVP recording: radio waves. Radio wave interference has been a suggested false-positive agent by many skeptics and investigators alike. The possibility does indeed exist. I say this because I've experienced answering machines that have picked up cordless telephone conversations, clock radios that have picked up CB communications, and even a TV that picked up a radio broadcast. I know many of you can relate. So, even though our tape recorders, micro-cassette recorders, and digital recorders were not meant to receive radio waves, being an audio device makes them subject to scrutiny. When conducting any kind of recordings, be sure to ask specific questions that will have specific, short answers. Usually any EVPs that we get are just a few words anyway, so keep them that way. When the answer to your question comes just after you ask and it is an answer to that specific question, then it can be used as an EVP.
It's amazing how much a recorder will pick up. Simply walking across the room above where a recording is taking place can turn up "mysterious" footsteps. A soft, quick intake of breath can be heard as a "sigh" when a tape is played back.
In closing, there are two points I've tried to make with this article. One, be aware of what's around you when conducting an investigation. LOOK, LISTEN, then LOOK AND LISTEN some more. Two, not every piece of evidence is genuine simply because you think or want it so. If you're part of a team or know those on a team, use them. I send my evidence out to other members in case they can pick up something I missed. It saves me time and embarrassment. Do yourself a favor and do the same!
Note* MSSPI provides articles and links for research and educational purposes only. We make no profit from the posting of these articles. MSSPI does not claim or deny the validity of the information contained in them. All opinions and statements are purely those of the author. We leave it up to you to decide for yourself the validity of the information provided.
A Scientific Case Study: The Orb Zone Theory
A Scientific Case Study: The Orb Zone Theory
from the AA-EVP Website
( http://atransc.org/ ) formerly AA-EVP
It can sometimes be difficult for those without relevant training to appreciate how science works. Science works differently to everyday life. In the world of science, for instance, it is evidence that counts over everything else, including personal opinion. To better appreciate just how the scientific process works, here is a case study to consider. It concerns orbs, which are thought by many to be paranormal.
In essence, the scientific process goes as follows. Someone makes novel observation of a phenomenon and formulates a theory to explain it. They produce predictions from that theory and test them with experiments or more observations. If the new theory proves to be correct, then it might replace existing theories. There are two conditions that determine if this happens, though: (a) the new theory must explain everything the old theory did, as well as the new observations, (b) the new evidence must be beyond reasonable doubt and any experiments must be rigorous. In addition, scientific theories should fit in with existing science in related areas of science. If you invent a new agency to explain orbs, for instance, this might contradict evidence from other areas of science. Bearing in mind that these other areas of scientific knowledge are supported by their own hard-won evidence, you would need to demonstrate that they were wrong too before your theory could be accepted. Most paranormal theories do not achieve these conditions.
The Orb Zone Theory explains why cameras record orbs. Serious photographers recognised these 'orbs' straight away as 'circles of confusion' (a technical term in photography). They were bemused by the enormous interest orbs attracted among paranormal researchers. Knowing the orbs' origins, they felt no need to explain them in any detail. As a result, it was left to paranormal researchers themselves to expand on the simple idea of 'circles of confusion' to explain the various aspects of the orb phenomenon in detail. This was how the Orb Zone Theory appeared.
Introduction
Orbs were first noticed in the early digital photographs. These grey or white circles, sometimes opaque but usually translucent, were never seen when the photo was taken. For this reason some people thought they were paranormal. It was quickly realised, however, that they could be easily reproduced by blowing dust (or similar small particles) just in front of the lens when flash photographs are taken. Many paranormal researchers left it at that, assuming that all orbs were caused by dust. Others were not so sure as variations on the classic orb theme, like coloured or oddly shaped versions, began to appear. Then photos appeared that seemed to show orbs behind other objects in the picture. Some people claimed that orbs only appeared in particular places, such as haunted houses, or around particular people. It was clear that a more detailed answer to the orb question, beyond simply saying 'they're all dust', was required. The Orb Zone Theory was created to fill that gap. Orb Zone primer
The Orb Zone Theory (OZT) is essentially an extension of the 'circle of confusion' explanation for orbs given by camera manufacturers and serious photographers. In essence, an orb is a circle of confusion which is an out of focus highlight. If you look at a photograph with out of focus objects, like the one on the right,
you will see that instead of just going fuzzy, objects going out of focus turn into many overlapping circles of light (circles of confusion). Do they look familiar?
Obviously, the brightest circles of confusion, produced by highlights on the objects in the photo, outshine the darker ones completely. If you look at any shiny object you will see that, no matter what the colour of the object, the highlights are always white (or the colour of the light source). As orbs reflect the light from a white light flash, that is why most are white (or grey if more diffuse).
So, what is a circle of confusion? It is the smallest detail that a lens can resolve. When it is projected onto a film or sensor chip it appears as a tiny circular dot. These dots are deliberately made small enough so that people cannot see them as individual dots. Instead the picture appears as continuous shapes, rather than thousands of dots. It is a bit like the way a TV picture is made up of many lines that you can see if you look closely enough. Note, however, that circles of confusion are not the same as pixels!
When an object in a photo is out of focus, its circles of confusion expand to appear as circles (see diagram and photo above). The larger the circle, the fainter it is, because the light is more spread out. Eventually, when the circle becomes too large, it is no longer visible at all. This places a limit on the largest 'orb' you can see in a photo. This is why you never see orbs over about one tenth of a frame size*. If orbs were real objects 'out there', you would not expect them to have such a limit on their size in a photo.
A crucial question is - why did orbs suddenly appear when digital cameras arrived? The sensor chips in digital cameras are almost all physically smaller than the size of a 35mm film frame (most are less than half the size). This meant that lenses with a smaller circle of confusion were needed for digital cameras, compared to film cameras. As a design consequence of this, the lenses had a much greater depth of field. Depth of field is the area in front of a camera where objects are in focus. If objects are too close to the lens (and sometimes when they are too far away) they will be out of focus and break up into circles of confusion (see pic above). The increased depth of field in digital cameras meant that the closest distance where objects were in focus came much nearer to the camera. It also brought the area that was just out of focus much closer. Importantly, it brought these two zones much closer to the flash unit. In many digital cameras this created an Orb Zone. The orb zone is the areawhere the flash is strong enough to illuminate tiny particles, like dust, water droplets or small insects, that are just too close to the camera to be in focus. Such objects produce expanded circles of confusion or orbs! Since most bits of dust are tiny, they only have a single highlight and so produce individual orbs. Some larger objects, like small insects, may have several highlights and so produce multiple overlapping orbs.
Though the vast majority of orbs are circular, they can be other shapes. Though the basic shape is derived from the circle of confusion, it can be modified by the diaphragm in a camera lens. This diaphragm is an adjustable opening inside the lens ('the aperture') which varies in size to let more or less light in (note that this has nothing to do with the camera shutter). Though it is usually circular, it can be other shapes, notably a diamond or hexagon. Cameras that produce diamond shaped orbs (or other odd shapes) will always produce them in this shape because of their diaphragm. Since the diaphragm varies to control how much light is admitted to the camera, the diamond (or other shape) shape may be more pronounced in some photos than in others (depending on the size of the aperture) and may even vanish completely in some shots. Orb shapes can also be modified by vignetting, as explained below, and by overlapping with other orbs.
Various factors affect the brightness, structure (internal shapes, such as concentric circles, if any), edge sharpness and evenness of shading. These are mostly down to the camera lens. Photographers talk about the bokeh of a lens when discussing this subject.
*Lens flare which resembles orbs, can be bigger than one tenth of the frame size. Lens flare is associated with bright light sources either in the frame or just outside it. It is usually quite easy to recognise.
Has the Orb Zone Theory been tested? For a scientific theory to be validated, it needs to produce predictions and these need to be tested. Ideally, these predictions should be of things not already observed. If a theory only 'explains' existing observations, but cannot predict any others, it could be no more than speculation. Several predictions of the Orb Zone Theory have been formally tested to scientific standards. These include:
that orb numbers vary according to the depth of field in a particular photo
that orb numbers are unaffected by the megapixels of a camera
that orb numbers are unaffected by whether photos are taken in haunted or non-haunted locations
In each of these tests, everything was done to hold other variables (that were likely to affect the outcome) constant. It was then possible to see if there was any statistically significant relationship either supporting or refuting the predictions.
The first test concerned the central basis of the theory - that it is the distance of the closest point at which objects are in focus is what determines how many orbs will be seen. Such a relationship is unlikely to be predicted in paranormal theories of orbs which aren't usually concerned with the mechanics of taking photos. The second test concerned an idea proposed by some people that higher megapixel cameras produce fewer orbs*. The third test concerned the widely-held idea that haunted places produce more orbs. Some people propose, for instance, that orbs are actually ghosts or are the precursors of ghostly manifestations.
When these predictions were tested in rigorous conditions, they were all confirmed.
In addition, the OZT has explained many 'odd' kinds of orbs that were seen by some as 'beyond the dust theory', and so possibly paranormal (see the next section). The OZT has successfully explained many types of orb from hundreds of photos taken with dozens of different camera models in many different places and in all sorts of different conditions. These unusual orbs have also been successfully reproduced using the principles of the OZT.
* Though the number of megapixels is irrelevant in the Orb Zone theory, the physical size of the sensor chip is not. More recent cameras tend to have larger sensors as well as more megapixels. This means their lenses have a smaller depth of field which reduces the likelihood of orbs.
What does the Orb Zone Theory explain?When scientists discover a general principle or theory, they usually assume it applies to all known examples of the phenomena. For instance, when Newton discovered gravity he assumed it applied to all objects. He didn't think that, though gravity held Mercury and Venus in their orbits around the Sun, something else kept Jupiter in its orbit!
So, if dust causes most orbs, it is logical to infer that it causes all orbs. However, some paranormal researchers have said that certain orbs are so different that they must have a different explanation. There is a problem with this argument, however. Orbs only appeared widely with the arrival of digital cameras. Why should digital cameras just happen to be good at detecting both dust orbs and the proposed paranormal orbs? Some people have said it is because digital cameras are more sensitive to infra-red than film cameras but this is not true. Though their sensors are indeed highly sensitive to near infra-red, digital cameras are fitted with permanent internal filters to block most infared Overall, they are no more sensitive to infra-red than were film cameras.
With the OZT, it has been possible to explain all aspects of the orb photographs so far examined in detail, including some oddities. Here are a few examples of things explained by OZT:
that the vast majority are white or shades off grey (because highlights are the same colour as the light source as explained above)**
that orbs sometimes appear truncated around the edges of frames in some photos (caused by vignetting as the dust is very close to the lens)
how orbs can appear in front of backgrounds too close to be in focus (because they are very close and out of focus themselves, not in focus objects 'out there')
how orbs can appear to be moving (they are multiple overlapping orbs caused by objects with several highlights, like insects)*
how orbs can have tails, usually fading away downwards (because they are falling raindrops)
why orbs are never larger than around one tenth of the size of the photo frame (see above)
why cameras that produce odd-shaped orbs, such as diamonds, always get the same shape in all orbs
* Some people claim to have tracked individual orbs moving between photos taken in rapid succession and so have concluded that they are moving very quickly. One obvious difficulty here is, how do they know it is the same orb in both photos? Most orbs are featureless amorphous grey or white circles. Even if one could prove that the sane orb appears in two successive photos, it doesn't mean they are moving fast. The orb could indeed be caused by exactly the same bit of dust. However, it only needs to move a very short distance slowly in the orb zone, which is very small and close to the camera, to appear to move a long way in the photo.
** Some orbs do have colours other that white or grey. However, these can be explained by Moire fringes, refraction in water droplets and chromatic aberration, none of which contradict the OZT.
What cannot be explained?A theory cannot be considered scientific unless it is falsifiable. This means, there must be some evidence that could appear, or an experiment that can be done, that would prove the theory wrong. If a theory cannot be falsified then it explains everything and therefore, effectively, nothing.
Consider the following possibilities that might falsify the Orb Zone Theory:
a) Supposing there was a photo showing an orb partly behind an object in the picture. This could not be explained by the OZT where orbs are caused by objects just in front of the camera lens. Such photos do exist. However, in all the examples so far examined, the faint translucent orb was overwhelmed by a highly saturated colour in the object supposedly obscuring it. In other words, the missing portion of the orb could not be seen because it was overwhelmed by the more strongly coloured object behind it (particularly if it is highly coloured or very dark or light). Digital photography is more prone to this sort of effect because it has a smaller latitude (degree of detail visible in dark or light areas) than film*. . In fact, it is a legitimate question to ask why, if orbs are really 'out there' (as opposed to being very close to the lens), they always appear to be in front of the many varied subjects of orb photographs (covering a wide range of distance from the camera)? There ought to be lots of photos showing orbs partially obscured by other objects but in fact such pictures are extremely rare. The effect of a partially obscured orb is quite easily reproduced!
* Interestingly, you can sometimes the effect that the colour of the orb has on the object behind (usually making it slightly lighter) even though the shape of the orb cannot itself be made out. If the orb was really behind, it should have no effect on the colour of the object.
b) Another confounding type of photo might be one showing an orb with a shadow. These, too, have been reported and some examined. However, in all cases the 'shadow' was usually either a coincidental dark shape or, more often, the result of over-processing the photo.
c) What if orbs appeared more frequently in haunted locations or around particular people or events? Research has shown no evidence of more orbs in haunted locations than in non-haunted places. However, there have been claims that certain people or places 'attract' orbs or even that some people can 'will' them to appear. To test such claims requires more than just examining photos. All such claims of orbs around particular people or places could just be coincidence. It requires a carefully designed controlled trial, similar to the one that showed that haunted places are no more likely to have orbs than non-haunted places, to test the claim.
d) What if orbs were seen by witnesses at the time they were being photographed? This has been reported, though very rarely. Even if it is demonstrated to be true, it does not affect the OZT. This is because, the OZT does not cover such 'orbs'. Such phenomena should not be considered orbs at all. The OZT is only concerned with 'orbs', which are defined as NOT being seen when the photograph was taken. Lights have been reported in haunting cases for decades, long before the advent of digital cameras, and are nothing to do with orbs despite a superficial similarity. Indeed, the widespread interest in orbs may be affecting such reports. Is there a better theory?
All scientific theories are only provisional, current only until something better comes along. This usually happens when an observation is reported that can't be explained by the existing theory. However, any new theory must still explain everything that the existing theory does, as well as any new observations.
A rival theory to the OZT would therefore need to explain not only the novel observations but also:
why orbs are so much more common on (though not exclusive to) digital cameras than film camera
why the vast majority of orbs are white or grey
why the number of orbs seen is affected by the depth of field of a camera lens
why you can take photos of orbs in front of backgrounds too close to be in focus
why some orbs are truncated on the edges of some photos
why orbs never exceed about one tenth of the frame size
why orbs are always in front of the many varied subjects in orb photos
why some cameras always produce odd-shaped orbs (such as diamond shape)
There are lots of other more minor things that would also need to be explained but explaining everything on this list would be a good start to a better theory.
The Association for the Scientific Study of Anomalous Phenomena (ASSAP) has been investigating the weird seriously (and the seriously weird) since 1981. Their main aims are paranormal research and education.This article is from their website.
Note* MSSPI provides articles and links for research and educational purposes only. WE make no profit from the posting of these articles. MSSPI does not claim or deny the validity of the information contained in them. All opinions and statements are purely those of the author. We leave it up to you to decide for yourself the validity of the information provided.
from the AA-EVP Website
( http://atransc.org/ ) formerly AA-EVP
It can sometimes be difficult for those without relevant training to appreciate how science works. Science works differently to everyday life. In the world of science, for instance, it is evidence that counts over everything else, including personal opinion. To better appreciate just how the scientific process works, here is a case study to consider. It concerns orbs, which are thought by many to be paranormal.
In essence, the scientific process goes as follows. Someone makes novel observation of a phenomenon and formulates a theory to explain it. They produce predictions from that theory and test them with experiments or more observations. If the new theory proves to be correct, then it might replace existing theories. There are two conditions that determine if this happens, though: (a) the new theory must explain everything the old theory did, as well as the new observations, (b) the new evidence must be beyond reasonable doubt and any experiments must be rigorous. In addition, scientific theories should fit in with existing science in related areas of science. If you invent a new agency to explain orbs, for instance, this might contradict evidence from other areas of science. Bearing in mind that these other areas of scientific knowledge are supported by their own hard-won evidence, you would need to demonstrate that they were wrong too before your theory could be accepted. Most paranormal theories do not achieve these conditions.
The Orb Zone Theory explains why cameras record orbs. Serious photographers recognised these 'orbs' straight away as 'circles of confusion' (a technical term in photography). They were bemused by the enormous interest orbs attracted among paranormal researchers. Knowing the orbs' origins, they felt no need to explain them in any detail. As a result, it was left to paranormal researchers themselves to expand on the simple idea of 'circles of confusion' to explain the various aspects of the orb phenomenon in detail. This was how the Orb Zone Theory appeared.
Introduction
Orbs were first noticed in the early digital photographs. These grey or white circles, sometimes opaque but usually translucent, were never seen when the photo was taken. For this reason some people thought they were paranormal. It was quickly realised, however, that they could be easily reproduced by blowing dust (or similar small particles) just in front of the lens when flash photographs are taken. Many paranormal researchers left it at that, assuming that all orbs were caused by dust. Others were not so sure as variations on the classic orb theme, like coloured or oddly shaped versions, began to appear. Then photos appeared that seemed to show orbs behind other objects in the picture. Some people claimed that orbs only appeared in particular places, such as haunted houses, or around particular people. It was clear that a more detailed answer to the orb question, beyond simply saying 'they're all dust', was required. The Orb Zone Theory was created to fill that gap. Orb Zone primer
The Orb Zone Theory (OZT) is essentially an extension of the 'circle of confusion' explanation for orbs given by camera manufacturers and serious photographers. In essence, an orb is a circle of confusion which is an out of focus highlight. If you look at a photograph with out of focus objects, like the one on the right,
you will see that instead of just going fuzzy, objects going out of focus turn into many overlapping circles of light (circles of confusion). Do they look familiar?
Obviously, the brightest circles of confusion, produced by highlights on the objects in the photo, outshine the darker ones completely. If you look at any shiny object you will see that, no matter what the colour of the object, the highlights are always white (or the colour of the light source). As orbs reflect the light from a white light flash, that is why most are white (or grey if more diffuse).
So, what is a circle of confusion? It is the smallest detail that a lens can resolve. When it is projected onto a film or sensor chip it appears as a tiny circular dot. These dots are deliberately made small enough so that people cannot see them as individual dots. Instead the picture appears as continuous shapes, rather than thousands of dots. It is a bit like the way a TV picture is made up of many lines that you can see if you look closely enough. Note, however, that circles of confusion are not the same as pixels!
When an object in a photo is out of focus, its circles of confusion expand to appear as circles (see diagram and photo above). The larger the circle, the fainter it is, because the light is more spread out. Eventually, when the circle becomes too large, it is no longer visible at all. This places a limit on the largest 'orb' you can see in a photo. This is why you never see orbs over about one tenth of a frame size*. If orbs were real objects 'out there', you would not expect them to have such a limit on their size in a photo.
A crucial question is - why did orbs suddenly appear when digital cameras arrived? The sensor chips in digital cameras are almost all physically smaller than the size of a 35mm film frame (most are less than half the size). This meant that lenses with a smaller circle of confusion were needed for digital cameras, compared to film cameras. As a design consequence of this, the lenses had a much greater depth of field. Depth of field is the area in front of a camera where objects are in focus. If objects are too close to the lens (and sometimes when they are too far away) they will be out of focus and break up into circles of confusion (see pic above). The increased depth of field in digital cameras meant that the closest distance where objects were in focus came much nearer to the camera. It also brought the area that was just out of focus much closer. Importantly, it brought these two zones much closer to the flash unit. In many digital cameras this created an Orb Zone. The orb zone is the areawhere the flash is strong enough to illuminate tiny particles, like dust, water droplets or small insects, that are just too close to the camera to be in focus. Such objects produce expanded circles of confusion or orbs! Since most bits of dust are tiny, they only have a single highlight and so produce individual orbs. Some larger objects, like small insects, may have several highlights and so produce multiple overlapping orbs.
Though the vast majority of orbs are circular, they can be other shapes. Though the basic shape is derived from the circle of confusion, it can be modified by the diaphragm in a camera lens. This diaphragm is an adjustable opening inside the lens ('the aperture') which varies in size to let more or less light in (note that this has nothing to do with the camera shutter). Though it is usually circular, it can be other shapes, notably a diamond or hexagon. Cameras that produce diamond shaped orbs (or other odd shapes) will always produce them in this shape because of their diaphragm. Since the diaphragm varies to control how much light is admitted to the camera, the diamond (or other shape) shape may be more pronounced in some photos than in others (depending on the size of the aperture) and may even vanish completely in some shots. Orb shapes can also be modified by vignetting, as explained below, and by overlapping with other orbs.
Various factors affect the brightness, structure (internal shapes, such as concentric circles, if any), edge sharpness and evenness of shading. These are mostly down to the camera lens. Photographers talk about the bokeh of a lens when discussing this subject.
*Lens flare which resembles orbs, can be bigger than one tenth of the frame size. Lens flare is associated with bright light sources either in the frame or just outside it. It is usually quite easy to recognise.
Has the Orb Zone Theory been tested? For a scientific theory to be validated, it needs to produce predictions and these need to be tested. Ideally, these predictions should be of things not already observed. If a theory only 'explains' existing observations, but cannot predict any others, it could be no more than speculation. Several predictions of the Orb Zone Theory have been formally tested to scientific standards. These include:
that orb numbers vary according to the depth of field in a particular photo
that orb numbers are unaffected by the megapixels of a camera
that orb numbers are unaffected by whether photos are taken in haunted or non-haunted locations
In each of these tests, everything was done to hold other variables (that were likely to affect the outcome) constant. It was then possible to see if there was any statistically significant relationship either supporting or refuting the predictions.
The first test concerned the central basis of the theory - that it is the distance of the closest point at which objects are in focus is what determines how many orbs will be seen. Such a relationship is unlikely to be predicted in paranormal theories of orbs which aren't usually concerned with the mechanics of taking photos. The second test concerned an idea proposed by some people that higher megapixel cameras produce fewer orbs*. The third test concerned the widely-held idea that haunted places produce more orbs. Some people propose, for instance, that orbs are actually ghosts or are the precursors of ghostly manifestations.
When these predictions were tested in rigorous conditions, they were all confirmed.
In addition, the OZT has explained many 'odd' kinds of orbs that were seen by some as 'beyond the dust theory', and so possibly paranormal (see the next section). The OZT has successfully explained many types of orb from hundreds of photos taken with dozens of different camera models in many different places and in all sorts of different conditions. These unusual orbs have also been successfully reproduced using the principles of the OZT.
* Though the number of megapixels is irrelevant in the Orb Zone theory, the physical size of the sensor chip is not. More recent cameras tend to have larger sensors as well as more megapixels. This means their lenses have a smaller depth of field which reduces the likelihood of orbs.
What does the Orb Zone Theory explain?When scientists discover a general principle or theory, they usually assume it applies to all known examples of the phenomena. For instance, when Newton discovered gravity he assumed it applied to all objects. He didn't think that, though gravity held Mercury and Venus in their orbits around the Sun, something else kept Jupiter in its orbit!
So, if dust causes most orbs, it is logical to infer that it causes all orbs. However, some paranormal researchers have said that certain orbs are so different that they must have a different explanation. There is a problem with this argument, however. Orbs only appeared widely with the arrival of digital cameras. Why should digital cameras just happen to be good at detecting both dust orbs and the proposed paranormal orbs? Some people have said it is because digital cameras are more sensitive to infra-red than film cameras but this is not true. Though their sensors are indeed highly sensitive to near infra-red, digital cameras are fitted with permanent internal filters to block most infared Overall, they are no more sensitive to infra-red than were film cameras.
With the OZT, it has been possible to explain all aspects of the orb photographs so far examined in detail, including some oddities. Here are a few examples of things explained by OZT:
that the vast majority are white or shades off grey (because highlights are the same colour as the light source as explained above)**
that orbs sometimes appear truncated around the edges of frames in some photos (caused by vignetting as the dust is very close to the lens)
how orbs can appear in front of backgrounds too close to be in focus (because they are very close and out of focus themselves, not in focus objects 'out there')
how orbs can appear to be moving (they are multiple overlapping orbs caused by objects with several highlights, like insects)*
how orbs can have tails, usually fading away downwards (because they are falling raindrops)
why orbs are never larger than around one tenth of the size of the photo frame (see above)
why cameras that produce odd-shaped orbs, such as diamonds, always get the same shape in all orbs
* Some people claim to have tracked individual orbs moving between photos taken in rapid succession and so have concluded that they are moving very quickly. One obvious difficulty here is, how do they know it is the same orb in both photos? Most orbs are featureless amorphous grey or white circles. Even if one could prove that the sane orb appears in two successive photos, it doesn't mean they are moving fast. The orb could indeed be caused by exactly the same bit of dust. However, it only needs to move a very short distance slowly in the orb zone, which is very small and close to the camera, to appear to move a long way in the photo.
** Some orbs do have colours other that white or grey. However, these can be explained by Moire fringes, refraction in water droplets and chromatic aberration, none of which contradict the OZT.
What cannot be explained?A theory cannot be considered scientific unless it is falsifiable. This means, there must be some evidence that could appear, or an experiment that can be done, that would prove the theory wrong. If a theory cannot be falsified then it explains everything and therefore, effectively, nothing.
Consider the following possibilities that might falsify the Orb Zone Theory:
a) Supposing there was a photo showing an orb partly behind an object in the picture. This could not be explained by the OZT where orbs are caused by objects just in front of the camera lens. Such photos do exist. However, in all the examples so far examined, the faint translucent orb was overwhelmed by a highly saturated colour in the object supposedly obscuring it. In other words, the missing portion of the orb could not be seen because it was overwhelmed by the more strongly coloured object behind it (particularly if it is highly coloured or very dark or light). Digital photography is more prone to this sort of effect because it has a smaller latitude (degree of detail visible in dark or light areas) than film*. . In fact, it is a legitimate question to ask why, if orbs are really 'out there' (as opposed to being very close to the lens), they always appear to be in front of the many varied subjects of orb photographs (covering a wide range of distance from the camera)? There ought to be lots of photos showing orbs partially obscured by other objects but in fact such pictures are extremely rare. The effect of a partially obscured orb is quite easily reproduced!
* Interestingly, you can sometimes the effect that the colour of the orb has on the object behind (usually making it slightly lighter) even though the shape of the orb cannot itself be made out. If the orb was really behind, it should have no effect on the colour of the object.
b) Another confounding type of photo might be one showing an orb with a shadow. These, too, have been reported and some examined. However, in all cases the 'shadow' was usually either a coincidental dark shape or, more often, the result of over-processing the photo.
c) What if orbs appeared more frequently in haunted locations or around particular people or events? Research has shown no evidence of more orbs in haunted locations than in non-haunted places. However, there have been claims that certain people or places 'attract' orbs or even that some people can 'will' them to appear. To test such claims requires more than just examining photos. All such claims of orbs around particular people or places could just be coincidence. It requires a carefully designed controlled trial, similar to the one that showed that haunted places are no more likely to have orbs than non-haunted places, to test the claim.
d) What if orbs were seen by witnesses at the time they were being photographed? This has been reported, though very rarely. Even if it is demonstrated to be true, it does not affect the OZT. This is because, the OZT does not cover such 'orbs'. Such phenomena should not be considered orbs at all. The OZT is only concerned with 'orbs', which are defined as NOT being seen when the photograph was taken. Lights have been reported in haunting cases for decades, long before the advent of digital cameras, and are nothing to do with orbs despite a superficial similarity. Indeed, the widespread interest in orbs may be affecting such reports. Is there a better theory?
All scientific theories are only provisional, current only until something better comes along. This usually happens when an observation is reported that can't be explained by the existing theory. However, any new theory must still explain everything that the existing theory does, as well as any new observations.
A rival theory to the OZT would therefore need to explain not only the novel observations but also:
why orbs are so much more common on (though not exclusive to) digital cameras than film camera
why the vast majority of orbs are white or grey
why the number of orbs seen is affected by the depth of field of a camera lens
why you can take photos of orbs in front of backgrounds too close to be in focus
why some orbs are truncated on the edges of some photos
why orbs never exceed about one tenth of the frame size
why orbs are always in front of the many varied subjects in orb photos
why some cameras always produce odd-shaped orbs (such as diamond shape)
There are lots of other more minor things that would also need to be explained but explaining everything on this list would be a good start to a better theory.
The Association for the Scientific Study of Anomalous Phenomena (ASSAP) has been investigating the weird seriously (and the seriously weird) since 1981. Their main aims are paranormal research and education.This article is from their website.
Note* MSSPI provides articles and links for research and educational purposes only. WE make no profit from the posting of these articles. MSSPI does not claim or deny the validity of the information contained in them. All opinions and statements are purely those of the author. We leave it up to you to decide for yourself the validity of the information provided.
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